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Bucketlist Bri

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Hiking the Porte d’Enfer (Hell’s Gate) on Grande-Terre

Last Updated: January 4, 2022 · Guadeloupe

La Porte d’Enfer (Hell’s Gate/Door) is one of those “wow” hiking spots on Guadeloupe. The Porte d’Enfer hiking trail hugs the lagoon and clifftops, eventually reaching the impressive Trou du Souffleur blowhole beyond the Pointe de Tortue.

Despite its name, this natural gem feels like a magical place. Cliffs tower against the deep blue of the ocean and the white splashing of its waves. Diverse fauna and flora sleep, sway, and stand watch.

Admittedly, the Atlantic Ocean winds and large waves crashing against spiky rocks all make for a tumultuous atmosphere. On land, you’re safe. But observing the power of the ocean against the craggy cliffside does raise your awareness and sense of vulnerability. As I carefully inched toward the overhanging edge at the Trou de Madame Coco, I could feel my goosebumps reminding me to be of sure-footing, less I wish to end up in a watery grave.

If you are a hiker and adventurer at heart, you will absolutely love the sense of freedom and mystery of the Porte d’Enfer. Here’s how to hike the Porte d’Enfer trail on the northeastern side of Grand-Terre, Guadeloupe.

Table of Contents show
Guide: La Porte d’Enfer, Guadeloupe
Getting to Porte d’Enfer
La Porte d’Enfer Hiking Trail
Trou de Madame Coco
Trou du Souffleur
What Else to See on a North Grande-Terre Road Trip
Viewpoints
La Pointe de la Grande Vigie
Grotte de l’Anse Castalia
Anse-Bertrand

Guide: La Porte d’Enfer, Guadeloupe

woman hiking the Porte d'Enfer trail in Grand Terre, Guadeloupe

Disclaimer: This post contains affiliate links that may earn me a small commission should you decide to click through and make a valid purchase (at no extra cost to you). Thanks so much for your support!

✈️ Find cheap flights to Guadeloupe on KAYAK from $99+

🚗 Rent a car in Guadeloupe from €17 on Discovercars.com

🏠 Slow down your travels by staying overnight in hotels in northern Grande-Terre

🎒 Pack and wear durable hiking sandals/shoes, sunscreen, and a rugged power bank

💧 Remember to hydrate—fill a reusable water bottle and take 1L per person

📸 Bring your best travel camera and drone gear for epic shots

🛡 Protect your adventures with SafetyWing, the global travel medical insurance for nomads

☀️ Sunset in Guadeloupe is at 18:00 (6 PM), turn around on the trail minimum 1 hour in advance

Getting to Porte d’Enfer

With a rental car, getting to La Porte d’Enfer is easy. There are no buses, so beware that to get around the island you will need to rent a car. It’s best to reserve in advance for the best rates.

La Porte d’Enfer is located just off Hwy D122 on Grande-Terre, in the community of Anse-Bertrand.

From Pointe-à-Pitre:

  • 54 minutes, 38km/23mi
  • Take N5 to and beyond Morne à l’Eau
  • Rte de Bellevue
Roadside sign for the Porte d'Enfer Biosphere Reserve

From Saint-François:

  • 47 minutes, 40km/25mi
  • Take N5 to and beyond Le Moule
  • Follow D120 to D122, Rte de Douvilles

🌟 If you don’t have data/wifi on your mobile phone, you can go to an Orange store and buy a pre-paid SIM card with 30GB of data for €65. Alternatively, you can use the wifi in your hotel to download an offline map of Guadeloupe.

La Porte d’Enfer Hiking Trail

Porte D'Enfer Lagoon in Grand Terre
The Porte d’Enfer lagoon. The hiking trail hugs the coastline!

The parking lot for the Porte d’Enfer hiking trail will be on your left as you head north up the coast. You can’t miss it, seeing as there are speedbumps and signs indicating your arrival. Pull off to the left and park in the gravel lot. Cross the road and head into the trees. There’s a wooden bridge indicating the start of the trail.

Follow this leafy, sandy path for 5–10 minutes to reach the mouth of the Porte d’Enfer lagoon. I’ve seen some old photos of this spot, with turquoise blue water, but the reality today is red, murky water from pollutive sargassum (and someone mentioned construction?).

The hiking trail hugs the lagoon on its right.

  • Female hiker at Pointe D'Enfer Lagoon in Grand Terre Guadeloupe
  • Male backpacker at Pointe D'Enfer Lagoon in Grand Terre Guadeloupe

Pack comfortable hiking shoes (preferably closed-toed) because you’ll need to trample and climb over many jagged, sharp rocks.

It takes around 15–20 minutes hiking at a casual pace to reach the first scenic viewpoint at Trou de Madame Coco.

☀️ To reach the Trou de Souffleur and come back, account for at least 2.5 hours of hiking round-trip (9.8 km). Plan accordingly! It would be wise to pack sunscreen, a hat, and sunglasses because there is little to no shade on the Porte d’Enfer trail.

Jagged rocks on the Porte d'Enfer hiking trail in Grand Terre
Make sure to wear comfortable hiking shoes — these rocks are spiky!
Trou de Madame Coco

Trou de Madame Coco

Just around the bend (facing the jagged Pointe du Piton jutting out of the ocean), is the Trou de Madame Coco. This striking hole is majestic and powerful. Waves ride over and spill down the rocks with such force, it’s frightening. Don’t get too close to the edge! If you’re taking photos and not looking, don’t step back. Just be careful — I can’t imagine anyone would survive a tumble into that thrashing water below.

Trou du Souffleur

The Trou du Souffleur is what most hikers come to see since you can witness water spitting out of the blowhole. You can even continue hiking beyond this trail, to do a half-loop in sort, but you’ll need to plan two cars if so.

What Else to See on a North Grande-Terre Road Trip

The landscape on northern Grande-Terre is wildly different than anywhere on Guadeloupe. A full-day road trip is a perfect way to explore it all.

  • female backpacker hiking in Guadeloupe
  • pointe du piton rock in ocean off Grand Terre coastline in Guadeloupe

Viewpoints

The Porte d’Enfer and coastline can also be seen from the side of the highway. Continue past the parking lot for the Porte d’Enfer hike. On the right side of the road are large pull-over areas where you can get out and take some panoramic photos of the Porte d’Enfer and its lagoon. You won’t be able to see Trou de Madame Coco from here.

La Pointe de la Grande Vigie

Why not see the northernmost tip of the Guadeloupe Islands? La Pointe de la Grande Vigie is just that. Go where few other travelers go with a visit to this protected area. A quick and easy trail loops around the tip so you can see the vast Atlantic and cliffsides of Grande Terre in front of you.

Grotte de l’Anse Castalia

Several other stops and viewpoints on a north Grande-Terre road trip are possible too! Though we didn’t have time to see it, La Grotte de l’Anse Castalia looks like a little slice of heaven. A short hiking trail leads you down to a carved-out blue swimming hole.

Anse-Bertrand

The town of Anse-Bertrand is a sleepy coastal town on the northwest side of Grande Terre. You can find lots of restaurants and budget-friendly accommodation options here. Definitely take the time to enjoy the Plage de l’Anse Bertrand and its white sand beach. The Plage du Souffleur just north of the neighboring town of Port Louis is also a sight for sore eyes.

If you love scenic hikes, you’ll seriously love Porte d’Enfer! The landscape is completely different than what you’ll see in Basse Terre, or even other places to visit in Grande-Terre (except maybe for the Pointe des Châteaux). If you have any questions, just shout!

Happy adventuring!

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  • Woman hiking on trail in Guadeloupe
  • Woman hiking in Guadeloupe, photo with text overlay "Porte d'Enfer Hiking Guide"

By: Bri · In: Guadeloupe

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🍡 Explore Jiufen Old Street and try local street food (The taro balls came highly recommended! We ate giant pork buns, xiao long bao dumplings, and a vegan pork noodle dish!) 

🍵 Visit the iconic A-Mei Tea House for traditional tea ceremony and sweets (a bit touristy, but worth it for the views imo)

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⛰️ Hike to the top of Keelung Mountain for a fun and sweaty adventure (go before sunset and go prepared for thousands of steps, lol)

🏮Wander through the narrow alleyways — explore away from Old Street!! 

⛏️ Learn about the town’s history at the Jiufen Gold Mine Museum — you can take night tours for a small fee or organize them through your hotel

🎭 Visit the two-story historic Shengping Theater, an abandoned cinema that provides a glimpse into Jiufen’s past

💦 Explore the nearby Golden Waterfall (10 minute drive)

Most people only come to Jiufen for a couple of hours to stroll through Old Street and take a photo of the teahouse since it evokes the bathhouse in Spirited Away🏮🐉 with its architecture and lanterns. But DON’T make the mistake of coming only for a day!! 

There is so much to do in Jiufen, even though we stayed 2 nights in the town (highly recommend), we wished we had stayed longer. 🥹

Oh yeah, and BRING AN UMBRELLA!! ☔️ Or don’t, the locals will give you one out of the goodness of their hearts (our hosts were the sweetest!!) ❤️

Save this to your Taiwan bucket list, pass this reel along to a friend, anddd check out my blog @bucketlistbri .com for more adventures abroad! 💃

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