Celebrating Day of the Dead in Sayulita, Mexico

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Day of the Dead, or Día de Los Muertos, is one of the most famous Mexican traditions and holidays. For a long time, it was extremely high on my bucket list! When we lived in Mexico, I was finally able to experience this incredible cultural event. 

So, in honor of this year’s upcoming Day of the Dead celebrations, here’s our experience celebrating the Day of the Dead in Sayulita, Mexico — a hip, surfing town on Nayarit’s coast.

But first, what is the Day of the Dead, and how is it celebrated?

Day of the Dead in Sayulita, Mexico

Embracing the Joyous Day of the Dead Celebrations

Day of the Dead is a joyous and festive occasion in Mexico when the souls of the dead are believed to visit the living. While it might sound a bit macabre, it’s so much more celebratory than sad.

To honor the departed souls, colorful altars of passed family members and friends are erected and meticulously decorated with memorabilia of the departed so that they may come back to delight in their favorite food, clothes, toys, hobbies, and so on.

Towns, cemeteries, plazas, and entire cities come alive with color and decorations that are full of symbolism and, above all, love.

The result?A magical explosion of papel picado strung across all the streets, handmade Ojos de Dios (eyes of God) decorating walls and walkways, and marigold flowers covering every square inch of sidewalks, altars, and tombs.

Many decorations and objects are full of symbolism and meaning, especially for the departed souls.

Day of the Dead is observed across Mexico, with varying cultural programs and festivities.The most famous celebrations take place in Michoacan, Oaxaca, Mexico City, and Mixquic, among others. However, small towns such as Sayulita also offer incredible insight into the celebrations.

Where to Stay in Sayulita for Día de Muertos

BUDGET-FRIENDLY FINDS ($0-50)

• Viajero Hostel – A vibrant, well cared for hostel with a mix of dorms and private rooms and a rooftop swimming pool. 
• La Redonda Sayulita Hostel – A colorful, backpacker-friendly hostel with a community lounge and garden.
• Hotel Vista Oceana – Oceanfront budget-friendly hotel overlooking Sayulita Beach.

BEST BOUTIQUE HOTELS ($50-150+)

• Petit Hotel Hafa – A vibrant Mexican-Moroccan style boutique hotel with a boho rooftop terrace in the heart of Sayulita.
• Aurinko Bungalows – Rustic, airy bungalows in the center of town with discounted surf equipment and an on-site yoga studio.
• Siete Lunas – A luxurious jungly hotel with an outdoor pool perched atop a hill overlooking Sayulita Beach.

When is Day of the Dead Celebrated?

Day of the Dead is celebrated on the 1st and 2nd of November.

Traditionally, the souls of the dead were honored on different days, depending on whether they were a child or an adult and even in the manner in which they died.

Day of the Dead dates honor the spirits who arrive at noon each day:

• October 28th – honors those who died in an accident or a violent death
• October 29^{th –} remembers the souls who drowned
• Oct. 30th – pays tribute to the lonely and forgotten souls, orphans, and criminals
• Oct. 31^{st –} remembers those who were never born
• November 1st – honors spirits of the children (All Saints Day)
• November 2nd – honors spirits of adults (All Souls Day)

Also, because of modern times and Halloween gaining in popularity, Day of the Dead is often confused with Halloween. To be clear, the two have many differences.

While Halloween celebrations might merge with the Day of the Dead, the main celebrations and cultural programs of the Day of the Dead still take place on November 1st and 2nd throughout Mexico.

While celebrations of Halloween might merge with Day of the Dead, the main celebrations and cultural programs of Day of the Dead still take place on November 1st and 2nd throughout Mexico.

Common Symbols of Day of the Dead

La Calavera Catrina 

Day of the Dead is most often characterized by the famous Calavera Catrina, who was first depicted by a 20th-century political cartoonist named Posada.

Posada etched La Calavera Catrina dressed in fancy garments, thus poking fun at the fact that underneath it all, “we are all skeletons.” It was later popularized by icon Diego Rivera (husband of Frida Kahlo) in his 1946-47 mural. Many women dress up as La Catrina during the festival.

Calavera (Skull)

Skulls, or “Calavera,” are also iconic of Day of the Dead. These skulls are often placed on the altars, and sugar skulls, “Calavera de azúcar,” are popular candies.

Altars / Offerings (Ofrendas)

Families traditionally create altars every year to honor family members who have passed. Although history and tradition are evolving, I learned that it is still extremely important to do this for each family member.

The altar is decorated with all the things that the departed soul loved, whether that’s clothes, food, drink, or hobbies. We even saw an altar decorated with all things surf, including a surfboard. 

In addition to all the offerings placed on the altar, the altar is decorated with candles, marigold flowers, and sometimes painted rice or colored sand that meticulously decorates the space in front of the altar.

Marigold Flowers (Cempasúchil Flor de Muerto)

Marigolds are abundant during the Day of the Dead and are said to welcome and even guide the spirits to their respective altars. The bright orange flowers create an incredible atmosphere and aroma.

Pan de Muerto

El pan de Muerto is a staple Day of the Dead pastry, covered in granulated sugar and with a soft brioche center. It can vary a bit from region to region. This is how we experienced them in Nayarit, at least.

Papel Picado 

Papel picado are the brightly-colored flags that represent most Mexican holidays and festivities. During Day of the Dead, papel picado decorates nearly every space imaginable: altars, shops, plazas, etc.

Most are strung between buildings across the streets. They represent the wind and the fragility of life and give a special festive feeling to the atmosphere.

Ojos de Dios

Ojos de Dios or “eyes of God / God’s eye” are typical of the Huichol indigenous tribe from the Mexican states of Nayarit and Jalisco, among others, within the Sierra Madre mountains.

Although they are often made for children, we also saw them hanging above the doors of homes year-round in the town in order to bring peace and represent God’s watchful eye.

Our Experience Celebrating Day of the Dead in Sayulita

Sayulita is one of Mexico’s pueblo magicos, or magic towns. Known for its popular surf, hipster boutiques, and colorful streets, Sayulita attracts quite the crowd. For a couple of years now, their Day of the Dead celebrations have become phenomenal!

Remembering a friend

Our Day of the Dead experience began first in San Pancho, where we talked to friends and learned about their stories.

While San Pancho didn’t host a cultural program like Sayulita, it’s where we first paid tribute to our friend Rich who sadly passed away over the summer. He was one of the first people we met when we moved to San Pancho.

The guys at the coffee shop that Rich frequented every morning handcrafted a small altar showcasing his photo, marigolds, three coffee creamers, and an unfinished cigarette butt – the way Rich used to spend his mornings at Kokonati.

October 31 in Sayulita

Being big on Halloween, we wanted to go out for the night. So, we painted on sugar skull makeup, took a taxi with friends from San Pancho, and stepped out in Sayulita under a sky full of flying papel picado. I had seen papel picado in the town before, but nothing like this!

In the town center, a stage was erected, and traditional dances, singing, shows, and speeches were performed – all a part of Sayulita’s two-day cultural program.

We weaved ourselves around the plaza, visiting each altar one by one. Most still needed finishing, but already, the work was astonishing. There wasn’t a detail out of place.

November 1: Taking in the sights and smells

Not wanting to miss a thing, we returned the next day to fully enjoy the official start of Day of the Dead.

When we arrived, we excitedly discovered even more decorations, complex and gorgeous altars, dances, and a full cultural program. Though we didn’t watch the full show, we simply took in all the electric energy, the colors and lights, the smiles and hugs, and most of all, the love.

That night, we noticed a big emphasis on the altars of the departed children, with photos of the little ones and their favorite toys or clothes.

Next to each altar sat someone I presumed to be a relative. Some were sullen, but most were smiling and welcoming, inviting all to share in the beauty and memory of each departed soul.

Surrounding us were adults and children dressed in Catrinas and sugar skull makeup.

Shops were covered in candles and ojos de Dios, and vendors sold piles of sweetbreads and skull candies at every corner.

Music and a familiar mariachi boy’s singing were blaring over the speakers from the stage.

Down a popular street in Sayulita was a walkway decorated by the Huichol Indians of Sayulita (or “Wixaritaris” in Huichol) to share their prehispanic culture with us. Paul and I followed the arrows down to a man who blessed us with a marigold dipped in water.

November 1 at midnight: Our night walk from the town to the graveyard

We had heard that a Day of the Dead walk from the center of Sayulita all the way to the ocean-front cemetery was going to take place at midnight that night.

After a moving speech, the time came to march together to the graveyard, where the festivities would continue – but this time on the graves of the departed.

The band drummed its way to the beachside cemetery, leading the crowd out of the streets down a sandy road and up a hill all the way to the graveyard. We had never been before, and I’m kind of glad we waited until this momentous occasion.

We stood atop the hill, and all we could see were rows of tombs and graves. Nearly all were lit with candles and flowers. Some families had arrived before us, and we found them already drunk and laughing with joy — certainly from stories from times past together.

Never before had I seen people lounging around graves or drinking beer huddled next to a tombstone (with one beer left open for the departed one).

It was more of a party than anything, and it’s hard to describe the feeling from a spectator’s point of view.

It’s both overwhelming and humbling, so much so that it brings tears to your eyes and prayers to your lips.

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Tips for Celebrating Day of the Dead in Sayulita

• Book your hotels well in advance!
  • You’ll want to book your hotel for Day of the Dead in Sayulita at least six months in advance, if not sooner. Because Sayulita is a smaller city compared to Puerto Vallarta, etc. you don’t have as many accommodation options in town to choose from which makes finding somewhere to stay even trickier. You’ll also likely get better rates the sooner you book!
• Consider staying in nearby small towns.
  • Choosing to stay in nearby towns like San Pancho or Lo de Marcos instead of Sayulita is a great idea! You’ll avoid some of the crowds, get better rates on hotels, and still be just a short drive away. 
• Practice respectful etiquette!
  • Understanding the cultural significance of Day of the Dead is an important part of the experience. This isn’t Halloween, but a rich celebration of Mexican heritage. Be especially mindful when visiting cemeteries by refraining from stepping on graves and being quiet. Never take photos without permission!

Final Thoughts | Day of the Dead in Sayulita, Mexico

If you ever have the opportunity to experience Day of the Dead in Mexico, you must grab it and not let go.

Day of the Dead remains one of my most memorable cultural experiences, and I regret not being able to attend again this year!

Have you ever celebrated Day of the Dead with a family or somewhere else in Mexico? I want to hear about it! Share your comments with me here below.

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