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The Complete Guide to Vieux Lyon: The City’s Medieval & Renaissance District

Last Updated: December 1, 2022 · France

One of my favorite places to visit in Lyon is Vieux (Old) Lyon, the city’s historic district sandwiched between Fourvière Hill—atop which sits the crown jewel of the city, the Basilica of Fourvière—and the timeless Saône River.

There is nowhere else in Lyon, perhaps except for the neighborhood of Croix-Rousse, that will transport you back in time quite like Lyon’s Old Town.

As a UNESCO World Heritage Site, its old-world charm and cultural and economic importance throughout history are undeniable.

A view of the Basilica of Fourvière in the distance between historic Renaissance buildings and residences of Old Lyon.

Disclaimer: This post contains affiliate links that may earn me a small commission should you decide to click through and make a valid purchase (at no extra cost to you). Thanks so much for your support!

Inside a cozy, dim-lit café located in Old Lyon, France.

In this exquisite and intricate labyrinth of cobblestone streets lined with traditional bouchons Lyonnais, you will find myriad historical, cultural, and gastronomical gems.

From the Gallo-Roman ruins to the decorated churches and cathedrals to the hidden courtyards and tunnels, Vieux Lyon is teeming with mystery, history, and a dash of mayhem.

As you waltz around this antique district, you can’t help but slip into a daze as you dream about Lyon’s complex past and how it clashes yet compliments its contemporary vibrancy.

Having lived in Lyon for over a year, I will clue you in on all the best things to do and see in Old Lyon, including where to stay, eat, and play.

Here is the ultimate insider’s guide to Vieux Lyon!

Table of Contents show
The Ultimate Guide to Vieux Lyon
A Brief History of Old Lyon
How to Get to Lyon’s Old Town
Where to Stay in Vieux Lyon
Unmissable Things to See & Do in Vieux Lyon
Ride the Old Cable Car Up to Fourvière Hill
Visit La Basilique Notre Dame de Fourvière
Explore the Ruins of the Amphitéatre des Trois Gaules
Stroll the Rue Saint-Georges
Taste French Cuisine on a 4-Hour Food Tour
Step Inside the Catédrale Saint-Jean-Baptiste
Indulge in Organic Ice Cream at Terre Adélice
Take a Private & Customizable Walking Tour
Visit the Quirky Museums in Old Lyon
Where & What to Eat in Vieux Lyon
Last Tips for Visiting Vieux Lyon

The Ultimate Guide to Vieux Lyon

Renaissance-era dwellings and courtyard in the heart of Vieux Lyon.

A Brief History of Old Lyon

Vieux Lyon is modern Lyon’s medieval and Renaissance neighborhood dating back to the Middle Ages.

In fact, founded in 43 BC, the city of Lyon (then known as Lugdunum) was one of the first Roman settlements and the biggest city in Gaul—the name Romans gave to the western European region (now present-day France, Belgium, Luxembourg, and parts of Switzerland, Italy, and Germany).

Lyon's Old Town with Renaissance architecture with arched breezeways and a lion statue.
An empty street (Rue) in the heart of Vieux Lyon, France.
Gothic-Roman Cathedral in Vieux Lyon with arched ruins.

Today, you can see remnants of this antique history throughout Old Lyon: at the preserved site of the Gallo-Roman ruins perched atop Fourvière Hill (in French, the Amphíthéâtre des Trois Gaules); throughout the cobbled streets and in the residences reminiscent of the Renaissance; and in the secrets that lie in the staircases, courtyards and traboules (passageways) that hide behind unassuming doors and buildings.

“Humans have settled at this site destined for urbanization for more than two thousand years and built a city whose stages of development are still visible today: from the Roman vestiges of antique Lugdunum to the medieval streets on the slopes of Fourvière and the Renaissance dwellings of Vieux-Lyon…”

UNESCO

How to Get to Lyon’s Old Town

As I mentioned above, the Old Town of Lyon is located between Fourvière Hill and the Saône River, just opposite the Presqu’Île in central Lyon.

Bridge crossing the Saône River in Lyon, France.

Luckily, there is a metro station right in the heart of Old Lyon (Saint-Jean) so you’ll be able to easily get to/from Vieux Lyon from anywhere in the city.

From Bellecour, take the green Line D toward Vaise and stop off at Vieux Lyon.

Lyon’s metro line map

Metro tickets cost 1,80€ per journey, so it’s much, much cheaper to purchase a Lyon City Card which grants unlimited public transport across Lyon including the metro, bus, and tram lines.

Where to Stay in Vieux Lyon

Some of Lyon’s best hotels are arguably located in the heart of Vieux Lyon. After all, it is one of the city’s most visited and popular districts to visit (for obvious reasons!).

Before you book, it’s good to know that there are three subsections of Old Lyon:

  • Saint-Paul (north)
  • Saint-Jean (heart of Vieux Lyon)
  • Saint-George (south)

You will be within walking distance of tons of restaurants and attractions no matter where you stay in the historic district!

Below are some of my recommendations for places to stay in Old Lyon. For more, read my guide to Lyon’s best boutique hotels..

The Host Inn ($$$): Located in the very heart of Old Lyon, this cozy and furnished apartment has everything you need to have an intimate, memorable stay. You will be mere steps away from the best of Lyon’s charming Renaissance district, including museums, restaurants, and historic sites.

La Villa Florentine ($$$): This 5-star luxury hotel has perfected the French art de vivre. It features an award-winning gastronomic restaurant, a wellness spa with a heated swimming pool, whirlpool, and sauna, and 29 elegant suites offering panoramic views over the historic district and city.

Honorê Baleine Suite ($$): Centrally-located, bright and modern studio apartment ideal for solo travelers or couples on vacation, or biz travelers on a quick work trip. A great choice if you’re traveling with pets!

Unmissable Things to See & Do in Vieux Lyon

There is plenty to do and see in the district of Old Lyon—from touring the traboules to sharing a meal in a traditional Lyonnais restaurant to visiting the culture and art museums, and more!

The courtyard of Place Saint-Jean with a fountain and view of Fourvière Hill and Basilica.

Every time we go back to Lyon, we always wander around Vieux Lyon for a day. Here are our favorite places to visit and things to do!

Ride the Old Cable Car Up to Fourvière Hill

To get to the top of Fourvière Hill, you can either walk or take the historic Funiculaire de Fourvière (cable car). This ride is a fun way to travel back in time. At the top, you will be a short walk away from the Basilica of Fourvière and the Gallo-Roman Museum and Ruins. Journey time from Vieux Lyon up to Fourvière takes 2 minutes and a roundtrip ticket costs just 3€.

PS — The Lyon City Card pass gives you free access to the funicular, plus free entrance to 24 museums and some of the best things to do in Lyon (and all for under 30€!).

The Basilica of Fourvière atop Fourvière Hill in Lyon, France.

Visit La Basilique Notre Dame de Fourvière

No visit to Vieux Lyon is complete without stepping inside the Basilica of Our Lady of Fourvière.

The decorated interior is simply stunning; the walls are covered in thousands of colorful mosaics that recount impressive biblical scenes. When the light streams in through the windows, it creates a myriad of hues and colors at different hours of the day, bringing the works of art to life.

Mosaic wall inside the Basilica Fourviere in Lyon, France
Inside the beautiful Basilica of Fourvière

Don’t miss out on the panoramic view of the entire city outside the basilica as well! From April–October, the Lyon City Card grants you free access to the roof. Year-round, the pass gives you access to the Fourvière Museum of Religious Art.

Explore the Ruins of the Amphitéatre des Trois Gaules

Just a couple blocks away from the basilica, on the slopes of Fourvière Hill, you can explore the ancient ruins of the Gallo-Roman Grand Amphitheater and Odeon which were both listed as UNESCO World Heritage sites.

Exploring the ruins outside is free but it costs €4–7 to visit the adjacent Gallo-Roman museum (or free for Lyon City Card pass holders) which houses one of the most impressive archaeological collections in France.

Women stand overlooking the Gallo-Roman Ampitheatre in Vieux Lyon in winter
L’Amphitéatre des Trois Gaules

Stroll the Rue Saint-Georges

Among all the cobbled streets of Vieux Lyon, the Rue Saint-Georges is one of the most popular (some would say touristy). But it’s not touristy in the sense that it’s filled with inauthentic souvenir shops.

Along this street are traditional restaurants, Renaissance dwellings, courtyards, luxe boutiques, wine bars, quaint cafés, and more. It’s quintessentially Old Lyon with all its charm.

A tourist-crowded cobbled street in the heart of Old Lyon.

Taste French Cuisine on a 4-Hour Food Tour

If gourmet French food is your true love, there’s no better place to try the local specialties of Lyon than in the Vieux Lyon district. Here, numerous bouchons Lyonnais await with red-checkered tablecloths ready to serve regional flavors only found here.

On this 4-hour food tour guided by a local, you’ll get to try 17 different dishes at 5 different stops across Old Lyon. As this tour is led by a Lyonnais, you will get to discover the secret passageways of Vieux Lyon and get to discover the gastronomy of Lyon away from the tourist crowds.

Also Read: The 9 Best Tours to Do in Lyon ✨

Cathedral in Vieux Lyon district with 5th-century remnants in the garden.

Step Inside the Catédrale Saint-Jean-Baptiste

The Gothic-Roman Cathedral of Saint Jean is perhaps the most iconic attraction to visit in the heart of Vieux Lyon.

Inside, you can see the 14th-century astronomical clock of Lyon. Just beyond the steps of the cathedral is La Place de Saint-Jean (courtyard), around which you’ll find many lovely restaurants, the central St Jean Fountain, and elegant Renaissance-style architecture.

Before you leave the area, head around the corner down Rue Mandelot to find the Jardin Archaéologique where you can wander the remnants of a 5th-century cathedral.

“A colourful mass of craft shops, restaurants, ice-cream vendors, old postcard sellers, buskers and bars, [Vieux Lyon] is punctuated by two churches and a Cathedral – St Paul, the furthest up stream, known to have been the commercial area during the Renaissance, St Jean Cathedral in the middle, home to wealthy aristocrats, and St George downstream, the craftsmen’s district. It’s St Jean Cathedral, in the beating heart of Vieux Lyon, that visitors flock to see. “

This is lyon
View of Vieux (Old) Lyon across the River Saône.
A chocolate shop with arched windows in the center of Old Lyon.

Indulge in Organic Ice Cream at Terre Adélice

You will first see a long line of people queuing to try the incredible ice cream of Terre Adélice before you even get to the shop.

Terre Adélice creates the best ice cream with unique ingredients and flavors. Plus, they use only organic products throughout their entire menu!

Terre Adélice is originally from the department of Ardèche, which is where Paul is from as well! We always end up eating Terre Adélice ice cream in desserts for birthdays, anniversaries, and holidays.

You can find Terre Adélice on Place de la Baleine in Old Lyon.

Take a Private & Customizable Walking Tour

Lyon’s old town is actually much bigger than you might think, covering an area of approximately 1,000 acres (424 hectares). Luckily, it remains extremely walkable!

This 3-hour private (customizable) walking tour will allow you to glean the insights of a local while wandering the cobbled streets that hold many secrets beyond the visible eye.

Not feeling like walking? You can also visit and learn about Old Lyon from the medieval period up to the Renaissance on this fun and eco-friendly pedicab tour.

Visit the Quirky Museums in Old Lyon

Lyon is known for having some of the best, most quirky museums in the world. And many of them can be found right here in Vieux Lyon.

The Gadagne Museums, comprising both the Puppetry Museum (Musée des Arts de la Marionnette) and the Museum of Lyon History (Musée d’Histoire de Lyon), are not-to-miss places to visit in Old Lyon as they are so representative and educational about the history and culture of Lyon.

A museum of puppetry located in the 5th district of Lyon.

There is also the hyper-realistic Cinema and Miniatures Museum (Musée Cinéma et Miniature) founded by miniatures artist Dan Olhmann. Inside this fascinating museum are miniature worlds and originals of props used in famous films from Mrs. Doubtfire to Alien to Spiderman and beyond.

🎟 Get free entrance to all these museums in Vieux Lyon with the Lyon City Card pass!

A typical restaurant patio in Old Lyon with umbrellas for shade and elegant surroundings.
Restaurant-goers dining outside in Vieux Lyon in the summer.

Where & What to Eat in Vieux Lyon

If you didn’t know already, Lyon is considered the gastronomic capital of France.

And while you’ll find the traditional restaurants of Lyon (called bouchons), there is a concentration of them in the old town. In this historic district, you will find some of the best food in the whole city.

red wine glass | bouchon lyonnais | lyon, france
A salade lyonnaise served inside a bouchon lyonnais restaurant in Vieux Lyon
Une salade Lyonnaise

There is even an official association of Bouchons Lyonnais to ensure quality and tradition. Bouchons are identifiable by their cozy, family-style ambiance, pitchers of wine (usually a Beaujolais or a Côte du Rhône), and conviviality.

Some of the best places to eat in Old Lyon are at these establishments:

  • Daniel et Dénise
  • La Meunière
  • Les Fines Geules
  • Les Lyonnais
  • Chez Chabert
  • Notre Maison

There are many Lyonnais specialties to look out for on the menus. but my favorite dish is la quenelle — what my boyfriend calls a “flour sausage” (lol). It’s made up of flour, eggs, and when broiled, becomes inflated and grows three times its size. My favorite quenelles are served with cream, tomato and mushrooms, or a type of melted cheese.

Red-colored umbrellas provide shade at a restaurant in the heart of Old Lyon.

Last Tips for Visiting Vieux Lyon

There is so much to discover in Old Lyon, but before you hit the streets I wanted to share a few more tips for getting around.

Try to go mid-week: Weekends are an extremely busy time for Vieux Lyon, as many tourists come to visit the city for 2-3 days before continuing onto Marseille or Paris. Avoid weekends if possible to experience the charm of Old Lyon without so many crowds.

A busy half-sun, half-shaded street with tourists and restaurant dining patios in Vieux Lyon.
A street lamp and Renaissance architecture of Old Lyon.
A shaded street in Lyon's medieval and Renaissance district.
Street in Lyon's old town with cathedral and garden ruins.

Book hotels and restaurants way in advance: Due to its popularity, the restaurants and hotels available in Vieux Lyon fill up fast. Book your accommodation today and go ahead and make a reservation at least a week in advance for the more popular eateries.

You don’t need a car: Lyon is an extremely pedestrian and bike-friendly city. Don’t make the mistake of driving your rental car into or around the Old Town. Walk, bike, or take the metro!

Last, but not least, don’t go to Lyon without purchasing a 1, 2, 3 or 4-day Lyon City Card! The pass pays for itself with 40+ activites and unlimited transport.

🇫🇷 PIN & SHARE THIS GUIDE TO OLD LYON

By: Bri · In: France

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I’m Bri, an adventurous digital nomad living abroad full-time since 2015. It is my hope to inspire you to live a life of adventure, seek out meaningful experiences, and travel slowly and mindfully!

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My travel blogging journey 👇✨ I started my f My travel blogging journey 👇✨

I started my first travel blog online in 2013 when I moved to France for 14 months as part of my undergrad study abroad program. It really was just a diary-style online journal recounting my cultural and outdoor adventures. 

Then, in 2015, I started another blog inspired by my adopted cat, Yoda, who was just one year old back then and was about to move across the world to Nepal with me. It was there, while living in Kathmandu that I bought my first travel blog domain, which evolved into what you now know as Bucketlist Bri (bucketlistbri.com). Slowly, through trial and error, I learned how to navigate SEO, monetization, and beyond.

It wasn’t until late 2019 that I decided to take travel blogging seriously, as in, pursue it as my career. Up until then, to keep me afloat while getting my master’s degree abroad, I worked as a freelancer writer on Upwork.com. Meanwhile, I was starting to publish more frequently on my travel blog.

I don’t have to explain what happened in 2020 to the travel industry, but what I can tell you is that I didn’t give up on my travel blog.

Now, three years later, and TEN years after I first started publishing online, I am a fully self-funded travel blogger. 

That means I don’t need to land brand sponsorships or grow my Instagram (although, tourism boards are a lovely addition and warmly welcomed), nor do I need to write for others/publish freelance pieces, or work in an unflexible 9-5 to fund my nomadic travel lifestyle. 

I cannot understate that I did not have this vision for myself in 2013. Or 2015. Or even in 2019. It wasn’t until I started to commit myself to the work, the hustle, the dream, that I even saw the dream unfold. Still unfolding. 

I believe your life leaves you clues. Some of those won’t work out, but some will. 

And in those that do, there’s a common thread that, ultimately, weaves a beautiful tapestry (but that you might not see until much later and those that do are very fortunate). 

I know in my heart that I was always supposed to write. That’s my common thread. I just didn’t know it looked like blogging. 

(Continued in the comments!)

#travelblogging #travelbloggerlife #mystory
Behind the scenes of our dive in the Sea of Cortez Behind the scenes of our dive in the Sea of Cortez 🦭

1. Paul finishing his last dive to complete his PADI Open Water certification!! 🥳

2. A curious sea lion pup coming to play with us! 🥹 

3. Sea lions soaking up the sun on the rocks of Los Islotes ☀️ 

4. The arch of Los Islotes, which we dove under! 🤿 

5 & 6. After our first dive, these humpback whales surfaced right by the boats! This was our first time seeing these beauties up close — just amazing! 🐋 

7. You can see Paul’s nerves and excitement all in one here as he listens to his awesome dive instructor, Gus! @thedivegurusmex 

8. Dolphins followed our boat as soon as we left the marina on day 1. On day 2 of our dives, a huge pod of dolphins put on a show for us just off Espíritu Santo Island! 🐬 
 
9. My pure joy and excitement after my first encounter with the sea lions of Los Islotes 🥲 (sound on)

10. Divers will have an idea of what Paul is doing here before he suits up 😂 💀 

Still can’t believe we got to see all of this amazing marine life in one weekend! La Paz/the Sea of Cortez was named one of the top dive destinations in the world for a reason — have you added it to your bucket list yet?! 💛 

#padi #diving #scubadivers #sealions #losislotes #islaespiritusanto #humpbackwhale #dolphins #marinelife #seaofcortez #lapazbcs #natgeowild #wildlifeplanet #paditv #bajacaliforniasur #vivamexico
The first night after moving to Oaxaca as nomads, The first night after moving to Oaxaca as nomads, we were told by two tourists in our Airbnb, “Two people we know were mugged by dudes on motorbikes just a couple of months ago. Don’t walk at night!”

Our reaction went something like: “Oh, yikes, okay... Thanks for letting us know.” 😳 

That same night, Paul and I went out to grab food and were extremely anxious. I swear I jumped at every moving shadow—and I felt guilty about it!

At that point, I had lived in Mexico on and off for nearly three years. The Mexico that I know is pretty safe for tourists regardless of what the media portrays. 

But this sudden heeding of danger dug its claws into my core and made its nest in my stomach.

For the next two months, Paul and I walked back to our local apartment—a 10–15 minute jaunt outside of the historic center in a no-tourist neighborhood—multiple nights a week after getting dinner or drinks.

And I’m happy to share that we felt very safe. 

Apart from that first night, we felt safe the entire time in Oaxaca City, even at night (and, most importantly, despite the scary warnings of “true stories” from those tourists).

Of course, could we have gotten lucky during those two months and escaped danger? Yes, absolutely. 

But luck is not the whole reason, nor the point! 

Mexico is safer than most people have been told or taught, and my hope is that one day you will experience this lovely, welcoming, beautiful country for yourself! 🧡

Read the blog for more details about safety in Oaxaca + Mexico on my blog @bucketlistbri .com

#mexico #oaxacadejuarez #oaxacalotienetodo #oaxacacity #mexicotravel #nomadadigital #mexicosorprendente
Add “diving with sea lions” to your adventure Add “diving with sea lions” to your adventure bucket list!! 

Literally a dream come true to be in the water with these playful pups 🦭✨🤿

Just watch your head and fingers, they like to nibble 😂 

📍 Los Islotes, Baja California Sur
🤿 w/ @thedivegurusmex 

Would you do this!?! Send to someone who would!🦭🥹

#divinglife #losislotes #lapazmexico #bajacalifornia #scubadivingmag #padi #divemexico #bajasur #seaofcortez #sealions #espíritusanto #mexicoadventures #ecotourism #ecoblogger #adventureblogger #wildlifelover
Tips from a long-time nomad ⬇️✨ 💻 WORKIN Tips from a long-time nomad ⬇️✨

💻 WORKING ONLINE
While not all nomads/remote workers have online-specific jobs, it’s the easiest way to sustain an income for full-time or long-term travel. Here are some jobs you can do as a digital nomad!

• Blogging (This is what I do full-time!)
• Content Creation / Brand Sponsorship
• Virtual Assisting
• Social Media Management
• YouTube or Podcasting
• Graphic / Web Design
• Coding / Development
• Photography / Videography
• Freelance Writing (How I started)
• Marketing / Amazon FBA / Ecommerce

📍PICKING YOUR DIGITAL NOMAD DESTINATION
There are many countries out there offering digital nomad visas, but you don’t even need one to just travel as a tourist and stay in-country for 30, 60, 90, or 180 days. Nomads go everywhere as long as there’s a Wi-Fi connection, some countries you may consider are Portugal, Mexico, Costa Rica, Thailand, Vietnam, Croatia, Canada, Colombia, Indonesia, Brazil, and beyond! Even lesser-known places such as Namibia are starting to offer nomad visas to entice long-term travelers to visit.

🏡 FINDING HOUSING ABROAD
Read my blog post for the full guide on this, but basically, check local Facebook groups for renting local housing for extended stays and then use Airbnbs for shorter stays or to negotiate longer contracts with the owner. There are even more “nomad rental websites” these days to make finding accommodation even easier. Don’t overlook co-living/working spaces too like Selina where the digital nomad community tends to congregate.

💛 EXPLORING LOCALLY/RESPONSIBLY
As always, be mindful and respectful when you visit these communities. Many small towns are struggling with rapid growth and overdevelopment so be mindful of your choices of where you stay, how you spend your money, and who you support.

My best advice + detailed guides are all on the blog, free for you to use! Let me know if you have any questions about digital nomad life! 

Lastly, don’t overthink it. Moving countries isn’t as intimidating as you may think! It’s become second nature for us now after several years! 🐈‍⬛💃🌎✨
I’ve had the wonderful opportunity to discover t I’ve had the wonderful opportunity to discover this incredible country beyond the resorts and beaches, having lived temporarily in 5 out of the 32 Mexican states (Nayarit, Quintana Roo, Chiapas, Oaxaca, and now Baja California Sur) as a digital nomad who’s been slow traveling/living in and out of Mexico since 2018. 

There is so, so much cultural and natural beauty in Mexico — I wish more people could experience this country for themselves and not through the eyes of the media.

***Please visit Mexico as a digital nomad (or tourist in general) responsibly and mindfully. Stay local, eat local, drink local, shop local, support local. Leave No Trace and be conscious of your choices and impact!*** 

Here are the cities/towns we’ve slow traveled/lived in for extended stays.

• Oaxaca City — a colorful, historic open museum rich in indigenous culture and gastronomy 
• San Cristóbal de las Casas — an endearing pueblo mágico in the Chiapas Highlands
• La Paz — the capital city of BCS teeming with marine life, diving, fish tacos, and desert vibes
• San Pancho — an eco-conscious town in Nayarit famous for its sunsets and community
• Tulum — no introduction needed (and I wouldn’t go back here as a nomad due to overdevelopment)

Other great cities/towns/destinations for digital nomads are:

• Guadalajara (state of Jalisco)
• Santiago de Querétaro (state of Querétaro)
• San Miguel de Allende or Guanajuato City (state of Guanajuato)
• Playa del Carmen (state of Quintana Roo)
• Valladolid or Mérida (state of Yucatán)
• México City/CDMX (state of México)
• Sayulita (state of Nayarit)
• Puerto Vallarta (state of Jalisco)
• Puerto Escondido (state of Oaxaca)

I’d love to know what you think about Mexico and where you’ve been in the comments! 🇲🇽💛

And for the detailed guide of 13 places to live/visit, read my blog @bucketlistbri .com (just type in “places to live mexico” in the quick search bar if you can’t find the post under my “Mexico” category).

#mexicomagico #digitalnomad #visitmexico #livingabroad #fulltimetravel #mexicotravel #mexicodestinations #nomadadigital #nomada #mexicomaravilloso #slowtravelling #mindfultravel
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