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One Day Itinerary Exploring Terre de Haut – Les Saintes Islands

Last Updated: June 1, 2022 · Guadeloupe

Les Saintes Islands are a hidden gem of the French archipelago of Guadeloupe. With stunning turquoise water, colorful Creole houses, and picturesque bays that “coup le souffle” (take your breath away), these islands are a must-see destination worth adding to your Caribbean bucket list.

A day or overnight trip to Les Saintes will change your experience of Guadeloupe. Grande-Terre and Basse-Terre (the two largest islands of Guadeloupe) offer wildly different experiences already. But Les Saintes Islands, located off the coast just south of Basse Terre, take it even further and will simply blow you away with their beauty.

Did you know? Terre-de-Haut, along with Terre-de-Bas, are the only two inhabited islands of Les Saintes, which, collectively, has 9 islets! (Who knew Guadeloupe had so many islands?!)

In this guide, I’ll spill all the secrets of the gorgeous Îles des Saintes — what to do and see, how to get there, places to eat, where to find the best beaches, and much more.

Allons-y!

Table of Contents show
Guide: Îles des Saintes, Guadeloupe
How to Get to Terre-de-Haut & Les Saintes Islands
Best Places to Stay in Terre-de-Haut
Getting Around Terre de Haut Island
Things to Do on Terre-de-Haut
1. Visit Fort Napoléon
2. Discover the Beaches
3. Explore the Town of Terre de Haut
4. Try Les Saintois Food — Where to Eat
Beaches to Visit on Terre de Haut
Anse Crawen
Pain de Sucre
Anse Figuier
Anse du Fond Curé
Plage de Rodrigue
Grande Anse
Baie de Pompierre
Baie de Marigot
Anse du Bourg
More Things to Do in Les Saintes Guadeloupe
Hiking Trails
Terre de Bas
Scuba Diving
Visiting the 7 Uninhabited Islets (Îlets)

Guide: Îles des Saintes, Guadeloupe

couple on Terre De Haut island in Les Saintes overlooking the bay
Overlooking the bay of Terre-de-Haut

Disclaimer: This post contains affiliate links that may earn me a small commission should you decide to click through and make a valid purchase (at no extra cost to you). Thanks so much for your support!

How to Get to Terre-de-Haut & Les Saintes Islands

The only way to get to Les Saintes, Guadeloupe is by ferry! While there is an itty-bitty airport on Terre-de-Haut, no commercial airlines fly there.

Luckily, Les Saintes aren’t too far from the main islands of Grande-Terre or Basse Terre.

If you’re based in Grand Terre, ferries leave the port at Pointe-à-Pitre. If you’re on Basse Terre island, ferries leave from the small village of Trois Rivières or from the capital of Guadeloupe also called Basse-Terre (not confusing at all, right?).

Miss Karaibes ferry Les Saintes Guadeloupe
Basse Terre and Caribbean Sea, as seen from Les Saintes, Guadeloupe

Quick info:

  • Ferry companies: ValFerry, CTM Deher (local company)
  • Price per adult: €18–24 round trip (aller-retour) depending on the company, location, and seasonality
  • Departure times: 09h00 departure and 17h00 return
    • Must be present for departure 30 minutes in advance (our boats left early!)
  • Parking: Free at some marina parking lots. Otherwise, parking is available for 24-48h and typically costs €5.

Book online to benefit from discounts and receive your reservation by email.

🌟 Before you book your ferry tickets, decide whether you will just spend the day (9 am departure – 5 pm return) in Terre-de-Haut, Les Saintes, or if you will book a hotel for the night and return the next day. From our experience, we would’ve loved to stay longer in Terre-de-Haut. I would recommend booking at least one night to enjoy the sunset and sunrise in Les Saintes.

Best Places to Stay in Terre-de-Haut

Sunset over mountains and town of Terre De Haut in Les Saintes, Guadeloupe
Town of Terre-de-Haut

If you do plan to stay one night in Terre de Haut, make sure to reserve your hotel well in advance.

Tip: Guadeloupe is NOT the destination to travel with a “go with the flow” spirit, as we’ve come to learn. Expect to pay €50 minimum per night up to €150+/night for a hotel in Les Saintes.

Village Le Pre — A beautifully decorated hotel-apartment on the Route Des Press Cassin beside the postcard-perfect restaurant “Les Balançoires.” Ideally located nearby the beaches (in particular, Anse à Gilot) and 1km from the town/marina. Fully and cutely equipped.

Kazajany — Spacious apartment located 10 minutes walking from the ferry port and 5 minutes to the Pisquettes scuba diving club. Includes wifi, AC, and an outdoor pool with a view on the bay and Terre-de-Bas.

Garden Bungalow (Gîte dans un jardin) — Typical Creole-style bungalow surrounded by tropical flora. Located beachside in the heart of the town and 450m from the Baie de Marigot.

Getting Around Terre de Haut Island

Once you dock at Terre-de-Haut, you should consider renting a scooter, bike, or a voiturette (mini-vehicle) to explore the island.

man sitting on scooter in les saintes, guadeloupe
street in Terre de Haut, Guadeloupe
girl holding scooter handles

Terre-de-Haut is not that big — you could technically walk the length of the island in roughly 1 hour (from Fort Napoléon down to Anse Crawen), but you will easily tire. The island is hilly, and you’ll be in full sunshine for most of your promenade.

To make the most of a day trip in Terre de Haut, I would highly recommend renting either a scooter or e-bike. Most bikes and golf carts are electric. There are both regular and electric scooters for rent.

  • Scooter rentals: €25 to €30
  • E-bikes (vélos electriques): €35 to €50
  • Mini electric golf carts (voiturettes): €65 to €80

Important Note: You can only rent/drive a 50cc scooter if you don’t have a scooter/motorcycle license. Anything more powerful (100cc/150cc), and you’ll need a special license.

With any of these transportation options, you can get to/from top attractions like the Fort Napoléon or Pain de Sucre beach within 5–7 minutes instead of walking 45 minutes to 1 hour.

Where to rent them? You will find loads of options around the main plaza right as you walk off the ferry. The rental price includes helmets for 1-2 people and gas.

Things to Do on Terre-de-Haut

Les Saintes islands are small, but they offer plenty to do and see in one or two days!

1. Visit Fort Napoléon

  • Hours: 9am – 12 pm
  • Cost: €5 per person
  • Other info: Free parking, mask required, photos allowed, snack bar, museum shop
The Fort Napoléon and cactus garden on Terre-de-Haut, Les Saintes, Guadeloupe

Start your day in Terre-de-Haut with a visit up to Fort Napoléon atop Morne Mire.

It’s up here where you’ll get to have several breathtaking panoramic views of the surrounding islets and Les Saintes bay — a member of the Most Beautiful Bays in the World by UNESCO!

Classed a historical monument in 1997, Fort Napoléon and the Saintes Museum serve as a reminder and tribute to Les Saintes’ heritage.

Bay of Terre-de-Haut in Les Saintes Islands in Guadeloupe
the fort napoléon and les saintes museums in Terre De Haut, Guadeloupe
boat on the Marigot Bay on Terre-de-Haut island in îles des saintes, guadeloupe
window of ruined fort in les saintes guadeloupe

It was first built on top of the ruins of Fort Louis (1773–1809) under Louis XVI and then rebuilt later on from 1845-1849 and 1857-1867 under Napoléon III. Despite all fortification efforts, it was never used as a military base. It closed and was later used as a prison from 1940–1942.

Today, the fort welcomes visitors all over to steep in Les Saintes history. Inside, there are two floors and 18 rooms, each paying tribute to Les Saintes past, including its maritime/fishing culture, marine biology, and, most importantly, its historical records explaining the Triangular Trade Route which spread slavery all over the New World. There’s also a well-kept cactus garden surrounding the fort grounds.

Tips: The fort is open only from 9 am – 12 pm, so you better go earlier rather than later. To get there, I would recommend either a scooter or e-bike. The road is scenic, but it’s long, hilly, and in full sun. On foot, it takes roughly 30 minutes whereas a scooter/bike gets you there in 5 minutes. Head left from the main plaza (or, if you’re on two wheels, follow the road to your right that wraps around the town and back).

2. Discover the Beaches

Pain de Sucre beach with snorkelers and balsalt rock
palm trees blowing in the wind on beach in guadeloupe

There are a dozen or more beaches on Terre-de-Haut and even more including all of Les Saintes! But which ones can you, or should you, visit on a day trip?

Most visitors flock to Pain de Sucre, and after visiting, we can see why. With emerald clear water ideal for snorkeling, it’s definitely “picturesque.” The only downside to this beach is the crowd it attracts.

Of course, there are plenty more beaches to enjoy off the tourist trail.

  • Anse Crawen
  • Anse Figuie
  • Plage de Rodriguez
  • Anse du Fond Curé
  • Grande Anse (to see, not to swim)
  • Baie de Pompierre
  • Baise de Marigot
  • Anse/Plage du Bourg

Read more down below to see photos and descriptions of all the ones we visited in one day (thanks to our scooter!).

3. Explore the Town of Terre de Haut

man holding ice cream cone with view of Terre de Haut's pedestrian street in background
catholic church "Notre Dame de l'Assomption" in Les Saintes, Guadeloupe
wooden steeple of Catholic church in Terre-de-Haut, Guadeloupe
electric bike and clothing shop on pedestrian street in Terre-de-Haut, Guadeloupe

As for the town itself, its cute pedestrian street lined with cafés, shops, and delectable restaurants immediately immerses you into the quaint seaside fishing village of Terre de Haut.

From the main square, head right toward the quaint Notre-Dame de l’Assomption Catholic church with its volcanic stone facade and wooden steeple. Further down the street of Rue Jean Calot lies the colorful Town Hall and a lively square.

If you head in the opposite direction, toward Fort Napoléon, you’ll cross the famous Boat House, even more shops and bistros, and plenty of traditional Creole-style wooden homes with bright red roofs and colorfully painted doors and shutters (les volets).

4. Try Les Saintois Food — Where to Eat

Don’t forget to take note of these best places to eat in Terre-de-Haut during your promenade. In town, you have several options where you can dine on fresh fish and typical Creole food.

beach bar "Les Balançoires" in Terre-de-Haut, Guadeloupe
  • Au Bon Vivre – featured on the travel series hosted by Willy Monfret (Guadeloupe’s model ‘Ambassador’).
  • Les Balançoires — adorable seaside beach bar serving up fresh burgers and Asian-Creole fusion with elaborate cocktails.
  • Ti Kaz’la — classic French food with a gastronmic twist from the Antilles.
  • Couleurs du Monde — this harbor front colorful restaurant serves up up coffee and typical dishes on a budget.
  • Local specialty — Crêpes de poisson (fish crêpes).
  • Don’t forget to try a typical coconut cake from Les Saintes called “tourment d’amour“!

We personally had a delicious meal at La Fringale which included our choice of entrée, main course (tuna steaks), and dessert for €24/pp. Paul and I enjoyed a Creole gazpacho and King Mackerel tartar as our entrées, tuna steaks with delicious veggies as our main, and crème brûlée with old rhum and cream puffs (profiteroles) covered in chocolate for dessert! (Are you drooling yet?)

Note: Lunch menus in Terre de Haut will set you back around €19-24 per person, without drinks.

Beaches to Visit on Terre de Haut

Anse Crawen

blue water and forested hills of Anse Crawen in Les Saintes
man at beach Crawen in les Saintes, Guadeloupe

Imagine zero crowds, shady palm trees, and a grassy area perfect for beachside picnics. Anse Crawen is the last beach you’ll find on the southern tip of Terre de Haut, beside Pointe Boisjoli. You can go scuba diving around this coast. Nearby is also a hiking trail that leads up to Le Chameau (the highest point on Terre de Haut).

Pain de Sucre

Pain de Sucre beach with swimmers, palm trees, and the basalt rock
sailboats and swimmer at Pain de Sucre beach in Les Saintes, Guadeloupe

Pain de Sucre is almost as idyllic of a beach as it gets. Turquoise-emerald waters invite you in to snorkel and play in calm water with virtually no waves. Boats toss out their anchors and beachgoers line their towels up under the few shady palm trees on the sand. Go early — it gets crowded fast! Note: There is a dirt/rocky trail leading down to Pain de Sucre from the main road (5 minutes).

Anse Figuier

man driving scooter to beach in Les Saintes, Guadeloupe
palm tree on Anse Figuier in Les Saintes Guadeloupe

Anse Figuier is a little-known golden sand beach. You won’t find a soul here as it’s a little further to reach. Expect a bit of seaweed and lots of wind and waves, as this beach opens out to the Atlantic. From here, you have a direct view of the Caribbean country of Dominica.

Anse du Fond Curé

clear water and boat on Anse du Fond Curé in Terre-de-Haut, Guadeloupe

Just south of the town and marine lies the Anse du Fond Curé. This is a small, calm beach that looks out onto the bay filled with sailboats. Grab lunch at Les Balançoires and enjoy a cocktail with your feet in the sand. The local fish market is a 5-minute walk away.

Plage de Rodrigue

guy parking scooter on grassy hill near Plage de Rodriguie in Terre de Haut
Plage de Rodrigue in Terre de Haut Guadeloupe with a view of the country of Dominica

For a secluded beach experience, head all the way down the road beyond Grande Anse on the west side of the island to find Anse Rodrigue. In this little cove lies a wide-open sandy beach with small waves and little shade.

Grande Anse

The beach of Grande Anse on Terre-de-Haut, Les Saintes Guadeloupe

Grand Anse isn’t a beach for swimming or relaxing. Here, there seem to be lots of damage from the previous hurricane. The shore is washed away, covered in stinky sargassum. Nonetheless, it’s an interesting and scenic area to stop and look at on your way to Anse Rodrigue.

Baie de Pompierre

palm trees lining the Baie de Pompierre in Terre-de-Haut, Guadeloupe
Roches Percées off the Baie de Pompierre in Les Saintes, Guadeloupe
Grosse Pointe, Terre-de-Haut, Guadeloupe

On the north end of Terre de Haut, you’ll find several beaches and gorgeous miniature bays with crystal clear water. Baie de Pompierre is one of them! Here, you will find a large beach lined with palm trees. Not too far away lie the Roches Percées which. you can actually visit by swimming from the east end of the bay. Picnic tables set on concrete slabs speckle the shoreline for families and couples to enjoy. Showers are located near the entrance, as well as a little beach snack bar.

Baie de Marigot

boat on the Marigot Bay on Terre-de-Haut island in îles des saintes, guadeloupe
Marigot Bay - Baie de Marigot in Terre-de-Haut Guadeloupe. View from atop Fort Napoléon

The Baie du Marigot has got to be one of the most beautiful places on Terre de Haut. With crystal clear water, this area is ideal for snorkeling and is popular for diving. You can see this bay from above as you tour the grounds of Fort Napoléon.

Anse du Bourg

Creole red-roof houses waterfront on the Anse du Bourg in Terre-de-Haut Guadeloupe

Finally, spend some time appreciating the beauty of the town’s main beach — Anse du Bourg. The water reaches right up to the houses and restaurants perched and is ideal for swimming, kayaking, and relaxing. While on this beach, take a glance to your right to see the famous Boat House jutting out from the hillside.

More Things to Do in Les Saintes Guadeloupe

With more time in Les Saintes, you will be able to explore even more hidden gems of the archipelago.

Town of Terre-de-Haut with red roofs and turquoise water from the bay

Hiking Trails

There are several hikes on Les Saintes worth checking out! Unfortunately, the road to Le Chameau was closed during our visit, but normally you can either hike up to it or take your vehicle up the road to the top. The Morne Morel and the Fort Caroline are two attractions ideal for hiking (randonnée). If you take a ferry out to Îlet à Cabrit, you can also go hiking, diving, and kayaking around the coast.

Terre de Bas

Terre de Bas is the less populated, wilder island that makes up the two largest islets of Les Saintes. On Terre-de-Bas, you can also go hiking, visit remote beaches, go scuba diving and snorkeling, and more! One thing to take note of: there are no hotels, rather residences and apart-hotels on this island. One place to stay, proposed by the tourism office of Terre-de-Bas, is Coco d’Îles. You can find other accommodation options on Terre-de-Bas here. Ferries leave every day from Trois Rivières to Terre-de-Bas.

Cabrit Islet, view from Terre-de-Haut, Les Saintes in French West Indies
Terre-de-Bas
View of Terre-de-Bas from Terre-de-Haut island, Guadeloupe
View of the bay, Le Chameau (Terre-de-Haut), Terre-de-Bas, and a corner of Cabrit Island (right)

Scuba Diving

Les Saintes is ideal for scuba diving — warm waters, crystal clear visibility, and plenty of colorful marine life to see. One of the top sites is called the Sec Pâté (advanced open water certification required). Of course, there are plenty of other sites to dive including ones that are ideal for beginners. The two dive shops I know of are La Dive Bouteille and Plongée Pisquettes.

Also Read: Diving in the Jacques Cousteau Reserve

Visiting the 7 Uninhabited Islets (Îlets)

With several days on Les Saintes, you could visit the other 7 uninhabited islets speckled around Terre-de-Haut and Terre-de-Bas.

  • Cabrit island
  • La Coche
  • Roches Percées
  • Les Augustiins
  • La Redonde
  • Grand-îlet
  • Le Pâté
ferry boat docked at marina in Terre-de-Haut, Guadeloupe
coast and Pointe a l'Eau on Terre-de-Haut
Beach at Anse Crawen

In particular, the protected Îlet de Cabrit, considered the guardians of Les Saintes Islands, is accessible by boat and features 5-6 hiking trails, wildlife, and snorkel/dive sites. It once was crowned by Fort Josephine (1777) but was destroyed by the English in 1809 and later used as a prison in 1851.

With that, I hope you enjoy your visit to Les Saintes! If you have any more questions about your stay, feel free to let me know. Drop your comments below.

Please remember to travel responsibly and Leave No Trace. Take care of the places you visit!

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Gallery images of Les Saintes island in Guadeloupe with text overlay "Terre de Haut complete guide"
View of Marigot Bay in Les Saintes, Guadeloupe with text overlay "Les Saintes Guadeloupe"
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By: Bri · In: Guadeloupe

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Comments

  1. Catherine says

    June 3, 2022 at 1:57 pm

    Great Article. We are visiting Iles Des Saintes on a cruise ship in December. We love beaches and I’m wondering if you can recommend someone that could take us to several beaches by boat. Bit too old for scooters lol.

    Reply
    • Bri says

      June 7, 2022 at 11:33 am

      Hi Catherine! There may be private boats that take you around, but most of what we saw was DIY land transportation — scooters, bikes, golf carts. That said, how do you feel with a little golf cart truck? They’ve got small and large ones to accommodate couples or families. : )

      Reply
  2. Leeann Horn says

    June 1, 2022 at 2:13 pm

    Thanks Bri. I’m heading to Iles des Saintes in July for my 50th and have a question. Do you know if there are water taxi’s that can take you to Pointe a Pietre? We arrive late and I we won’t make the last scheduled ferry. Thanks so much.

    Reply
    • Bri says

      June 1, 2022 at 2:14 pm

      Hi Leeann! Thank you for reading and reaching out. Did I understand that you’re looking for a water taxi from Terre de Haut back to Pointe à Pitre?

      Reply
      • Leeann Horn says

        July 5, 2022 at 9:06 am

        Bonjour Bri,
        We’re here, in Les Sainte! It’s absolutely stunning, just as you described.
        I’m sorry I wasn’t very descriptive in my message.
        Since we’re spending our entire vacation in Les Saintes, we couldn’t take the last 5pm ferry to the island because our flight was late. We ended up having to book the very expensive option of taking a private water taxi (€250). Now, we have an early morning flight home and are going to have to either leave a day early or do the same thing again. So, good to know for your readers who are planning a vacation here.
        The question your other reader had about beach hopping with a boat taxi is a good one that I’m interested in, as well. I’ll check into it and get back to you with an answer (hopefully).
        Merci,
        Leeann

        Reply
        • Bri says

          July 5, 2022 at 3:19 pm

          Ahh, merci Leeann! That’s so helpful to know! In that case, maybe a night over in/near Le Gosier or Pointe-a-Pitre would’ve helped cut down on accommodation costs. I hope you have a wonderful time — please enjoy those beautiful beaches and sunny weather for me (I’m chilly over in Canada right now!). x

          Reply
  3. kohar says

    January 11, 2022 at 1:16 am

    this looks like so amazing and beautiful place. I just love to visit this. thanks for sharing this amazing article.

    Reply

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#digitalnomads #remoteworkandtravel #grouptravel #grouptrip #remoteworklife #laptoplifestyle #digitalnomadgirls
< 1 week until we get to do this again! Adventur < 1 week until we get to do this again! 

Adventures await us in our beasty 1990 Roadtrek 🚐🌲🥾 — she’s been sitting out winter in Washington while we tanned our toes in Mexico 🇲🇽 

I’ve never been able to choose between the mountains ⛰️ and the sea 🌊 … you? 

Tell me what kind of summer you’re manifesting in the comments! 🧡

#vanlife #summeriscoming #granolagirl #roadtrek #pnwadventures #outdoorsy #homeiswhereyouparkit
And... WE’RE LIVE!! 🚀 I’m stoked (read 90 And... WE’RE LIVE!! 🚀 

I’m stoked (read 90% nervous, 10% excited), to share that @slomadstories is officially OUT THERE! 

I actually had the first episode published on April 4th, but was too shy to share about it until now. 

But, as you’ll hear when you tune in... (🥳) this podcast isn’t just about highlighting raw, meaningful stories of adventure by ordinary people who seek an extraordinary life — YES, it’s mostly about that — but the very heart of this podcast is about DOING things despite how much they SCARE you or thrust you into the UNKNOWN.

I’ve always *tried* to live my one very short life by seeking to know, chasing curiosity, and jumping headfirst into the journey. 

— This podcast is simply a new endeavor, a new project that WILL NOT stop whispering at my heart. I’ve been trying to deny this urge, this tug, for so long! The whispers started in 2020 when a person who I thought would become a close friend bailed on the idea to start one together. So I let the idea go, for a while. But then it came back twice as strong in 2022, when I was living as a temporary nomad in Portugal for two months. It was there that I had my podcast cover art designed. That was already 1.5 years ago! 

Life passes us by...

We hear the whispers, we see the project coming to life in our heads, we feel the pull...

But we say no over and over again, and we make very legitimate excuses, until ultimately, the idea, the spark, the magic, fades; it chooses someone else to birth the idea and manifest itself into creation (something I learned reading “Big Magic” by Liz Gilbert, it’s amazing, go read it!). 

I have no idea why I felt the need to start a podcast, it’s not like I am already juggling enough.

But I wanted to, for me.

For you ✨ 

For everyone who ever chased that feeling, that tug. 

Because that?? 

That’s been my life for the last decade. I moved abroad countless times — and stayed — from Nepal to Mexico and beyond, and I would’ve never done ANY of it if I had not listened to the whispers.

This podcast is about continuing in the pursuit of the unknown, seeking more, and taking decisive action.

Welcome to Slomad Stories, & thank you for being here. 🧡

Xx,
Bri
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adventures await x

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