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Where to Drink Tejate in Oaxaca — The Must-Try “Drink of the Gods”

Last Updated: September 16, 2022 · Oaxaca

If you’re reading this, it’s likely that you’ve just stumbled upon a street vendor in Oaxaca City selling a chocolatey-frothy liquid and wondered to yourself, “What the heck is that?”

I thought the same when I first stumbled upon a woman pouring tejate (pronounced te-hah-tay) and serving it to her customer in a cute gourd bowl (a jícara) painted in bright red.

Turns out, this drink can make you a god — just kidding! It is considered a super-powerful drink, though, as it was only reserved for Aztec royalty in pre-Hispanic times.

And while the white clusters of who-knows-what floating on top might put you off from tasting it, this guide will convince you otherwise. (The foamy white stuff is actually just the fat (or grasa) that occurs naturally from the mamey seed and the rosita de cacao).

Tejate is a staple of Oaxacan culture, so you would be missing out if you didn’t try it at least once!

Read more below to learn more about tejate and where to find it in Oaxaca City.

Table of Contents show
Tasting Tejate in Oaxaca, Mexico
What Is Tejate?
Where to Try Tejate in Oaxaca City
La Cosecha Organic Market
Plazuela del Carmen Alto
Fería del tejate Y De Tamal
Other Must-Try Drinks in Oaxaca
Mezcal
Pulque
Oaxacan Chocolate (Hot/Cold)

Tasting Tejate in Oaxaca, Mexico

Tejate drink of cacao and corn served in a red jicara (gourd) bowl
Look at all that grasa — yum!

Disclaimer: This post contains affiliate links that may earn me a small commission should you decide to click through and make a valid purchase (at no extra cost to you). Thanks so much for your support!

What Is Tejate?

Simply put, tejate is an ancient Zapotec cacao and corn-based drink.

But in truth, tejate is much more than that; it’s the culmination of a deeply-rooted tradition combined with an influence of ancient civilizations and techniques.

As Amy Trubek argues in her essay Tejate, Tejateras, and the Taste of Place, tejate is primarily made up of freshly ground maize, or gruel. However, tejate differs from other maize gruels thanks to several ingredients and techniques.

Tejate contains cacao beans, toasted maize/corn, the seed of the mamey fruit, and rosita de cacao from the flower of the Q. funebris tree which is native to Mexico. Nowadays, tejate is also sweetened with sugar or syrup and served with ice.

Tejate drink in a jícara bowl sitting on wooden bench with ladel
Tejate is the perfect Oaxacan drink to enjoy on a hot day!

Tejate isn’t just about what’s inside. As writer Susannah Rigg mentions in this article, as well as Trubek, tejate goes beyond flavor and texture; tejate is also about technique.

Between the grinding, toasting, and hand-mixing, there is an art (and apparent secret recipe) at play.

What’s more, the tejateras—the name given to the women artisans of San Andrés Huayapam—are the only ones allowed to make this ancestral drink. But sadly, with modern society, that’s changing too, and women outside of the village, the birthplace of tejate, are making the drink (but badly, according to one tejatera).

Where to Try Tejate in Oaxaca City

Here are a few places where you can find and drink tejate in Oaxaca City. The cost is only about $20-25 MXN pesos, so there’s no excuse not to give it try!

Tejate served in a painted jícara bowl

La Cosecha Organic Market

There is a lovely little tejate stall inside the La Cosecha market where you can try tejate. Again, don’t shy away from the foamy white paste floating on top — it’s actually quite buttery and oddly satisfying!

Here, they’ll serve your tejate in a painted gourd with ice unless you ask for it to-go. Since this is an outdoor food market there are plenty of benches to plop down on, so take your time savoring the ancient terroir and texture of tejate.

La Cosecha is open from around 9am to 4:45pm, but the tejate stall may have its own hours. Check for updates on their Instagram.

Tip: This market is a popular stop on the touristy walking tour of Oaxaca, so get there before 11am or after lunch to avoid a giant crowd.

Plazuela del Carmen Alto

At the back of the Plazuela del Carmen Alto—the same location as the jewelry/crafts market in Oaxaca’s historic center—is another place you can get good tejate in Oaxaca. This is actually where I tried my first tejate (but I prefer the one at the market mentioned above).

The vendor at this stall will typically serve it to you in a plastic cup unless otherwise asked. You can also ask for no sugar or just a little. I am not sure when she sets up or leaves, but we went around mid-day!

Man holding plastic cup of tejate Oaxaca drink over a table of jicara bowls
Tejatera woman in Oaxaca serving traditional tejate drink
Tejate stall at the Plazuela del Carmen Alto

Fería del tejate Y De Tamal

The Festival of Tejate and Tamal takes place annually in the Plaza de la Danza in Oaxaca City.

Here, the women of the Huayapam set up their tejate stands for a state-wide celebration of indigenous food, culture, art, and more.

When to go: End of March, beginning April.

If you’re in Oaxaca during this period, there’s no better place or time to try authentic, traditional tejate!

I hope you enjoyed learning a bit about tejate! Below are several other suggestions on typical Oaxaqueño drinks that you should try before you leave Oaxaca.

Other Must-Try Drinks in Oaxaca

artisanal mezcal bottles in a row
Artisanal mezcal tasting tour

Mezcal

Mezcal is Oaxaca’s ultimate spirit. There is so much that goes into making an artisanal mezcal, which I detail more in my mezcal tour and tasting review, but I’ll just say this for now: you have to try it!

This alcohol is distilled by cooking the hearts of the agave plant. The cooking process (in an underground oven heated by volcanic rock) is what gives mezcal its unique smokiness.

Pulque

Pulque is another drink you should know! Pulque, similar to mezcal, comes from the agave plant (but the agave pulquero instead of the cultivated agave espadín widely used for mezcal, among dozens of other wild agave types).

In short, pulque is the sap that is found inside the heart of the agave piña (the same hearts cooked in the mezcal-making process).

Unfermented, the sap is naturally sweet and is commonly called aguamiel (honey water). Once fermented, however, aguamiel turns into pulque.

Pulque does have a small alcoholic percentage, so be careful! It’s so sweet and easy to drink it can quickly go to your head.

Oaxacan Chocolate (Hot/Cold)

Chocolate in Oaxaca is as essential as a piece of thread in a beautiful tapestry. In nearly every restaurant and cafe, you will find hot chocolate on the menu.

But don’t go just anywhere; visit the chocolate bar that’s just off the Templo Gúzman square (to the left of McCarthy’s Irish pub).

Here, you can try delicious, authentic Oaxacan chocolate with mezcal or coffee. You can even have it served cold, like tejate (just without all the extra tejate ingredients!)

Chocolate fría

During your travels around Oaxaca, you might come across other interesting drinks like:

  • Tepache — fermented drink made from pineapple rinds
  • Aguas frescas — fresh water-based juices made with various fruits
  • Chilacayote — type of agua fresca made from the Mexican fig-leaf gourd

There’s no doubt that you are going to see some of these drinks on display when strolling Oaxaca’s bustling markets or streets. Oaxaca’s craft beer scene is also budding (see what I did there), so if you enjoy visiting and supporting local breweries, head to Oaxaca Brewing Co. or La Santisima Flor de Lúpulo.

Also Read…

  • Unmissable Tours & Day Trips From Oaxaca
  • 8 Best Coffee Shops & Cafes (With Wifi) in Oaxaca City
  • How to Visit Monte Albán Near Oaxaca City (Zapotec Ruins)

I hope you get to try tejate and some of these other staple drinks of Oaxacan culture during your trip! Let me know how you find the taste (and foamy texture of tejate) in the comments below. Happy tasting!

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Bowl of tejate in Oaxaca, image with text overlay "The drink of the gods Tejate"
Gallery images of tejate drink in Oaxaca, Mexico with text overlay "where to drink Oaxacan tejate"

By: Bri · In: Oaxaca

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Tips from a long-time nomad ⬇️✨ 💻 WORKIN Tips from a long-time nomad ⬇️✨

💻 WORKING ONLINE
While not all nomads/remote workers have online-specific jobs, it’s the easiest way to sustain an income for full-time or long-term travel. Here are some jobs you can do as a digital nomad!

• Blogging (This is what I do full-time!)
• Content Creation / Brand Sponsorship
• Virtual Assisting
• Social Media Management
• YouTube or Podcasting
• Graphic / Web Design
• Coding / Development
• Photography / Videography
• Freelance Writing (How I started)
• Marketing / Amazon FBA / Ecommerce

📍PICKING YOUR DIGITAL NOMAD DESTINATION
There are many countries out there offering digital nomad visas, but you don’t even need one to just travel as a tourist and stay in-country for 30, 60, 90, or 180 days. Nomads go everywhere as long as there’s a Wi-Fi connection, some countries you may consider are Portugal, Mexico, Costa Rica, Thailand, Vietnam, Croatia, Canada, Colombia, Indonesia, Brazil, and beyond! Even lesser-known places such as Namibia are starting to offer nomad visas to entice long-term travelers to visit.

🏡 FINDING HOUSING ABROAD
Read my blog post for the full guide on this, but basically, check local Facebook groups for renting local housing for extended stays and then use Airbnbs for shorter stays or to negotiate longer contracts with the owner. There are even more “nomad rental websites” these days to make finding accommodation even easier. Don’t overlook co-living/working spaces too like Selina where the digital nomad community tends to congregate.

💛 EXPLORING LOCALLY/RESPONSIBLY
As always, be mindful and respectful when you visit these communities. Many small towns are struggling with rapid growth and overdevelopment so be mindful of your choices of where you stay, how you spend your money, and who you support.

My best advice + detailed guides are all on the blog, free for you to use! Let me know if you have any questions about digital nomad life! 

Lastly, don’t overthink it. Moving countries isn’t as intimidating as you may think! It’s become second nature for us now after several years! 🐈‍⬛💃🌎✨
I’ve had the wonderful opportunity to discover t I’ve had the wonderful opportunity to discover this incredible country beyond the resorts and beaches, having lived temporarily in 5 out of the 32 Mexican states (Nayarit, Quintana Roo, Chiapas, Oaxaca, and now Baja California Sur) as a digital nomad who’s been slow traveling/living in and out of Mexico since 2018. 

There is so, so much cultural and natural beauty in Mexico — I wish more people could experience this country for themselves and not through the eyes of the media.

***Please visit Mexico as a digital nomad (or tourist in general) responsibly and mindfully. Stay local, eat local, drink local, shop local, support local. Leave No Trace and be conscious of your choices and impact!*** 

Here are the cities/towns we’ve slow traveled/lived in for extended stays.

• Oaxaca City — a colorful, historic open museum rich in indigenous culture and gastronomy 
• San Cristóbal de las Casas — an endearing pueblo mágico in the Chiapas Highlands
• La Paz — the capital city of BCS teeming with marine life, diving, fish tacos, and desert vibes
• San Pancho — an eco-conscious town in Nayarit famous for its sunsets and community
• Tulum — no introduction needed (and I wouldn’t go back here as a nomad due to overdevelopment)

Other great cities/towns/destinations for digital nomads are:

• Guadalajara (state of Jalisco)
• Santiago de Querétaro (state of Querétaro)
• San Miguel de Allende or Guanajuato City (state of Guanajuato)
• Playa del Carmen (state of Quintana Roo)
• Valladolid or Mérida (state of Yucatán)
• México City/CDMX (state of México)
• Sayulita (state of Nayarit)
• Puerto Vallarta (state of Jalisco)
• Puerto Escondido (state of Oaxaca)

I’d love to know what you think about Mexico and where you’ve been in the comments! 🇲🇽💛

And for the detailed guide of 13 places to live/visit, read my blog @bucketlistbri .com (just type in “places to live mexico” in the quick search bar if you can’t find the post under my “Mexico” category).

#mexicomagico #digitalnomad #visitmexico #livingabroad #fulltimetravel #mexicotravel #mexicodestinations #nomadadigital #nomada #mexicomaravilloso #slowtravelling #mindfultravel
PSA: Your anxiety, problems or (bad) habits will f PSA: Your anxiety, problems or (bad) habits will follow you around the world until you face them no matter how much you travel or move countries 🙃 

I know I’m not the only one that feels restless at times and idolizes moving to a new region/country/continent to shake my feelings of anxiety or self-doubt or fear! (Also, I tend to think about moving to another country even when I just moved to a new one 😅)

I know because I have lived abroad for 8+ years. I used to try to drown out my icky feelings and past traumas with lots of alcohol but now I carry them with me like I do my mismatched socks — they add to the quirkiness and remind me I don’t have to be, and am not, perfect. 

And that life is more interesting that way, anyway. 

Anddd that most importantly, whenever I get lost, I can and will be found again — I just may look and think differently after new adventures but I am still loved and never lost forever 🧦 ✨💛 

In sum, whether you travel full-time or not, take care of yourself ✨💛

#nomadness #nomadlife #lifeofadventure #livingabroad #fulltimetravel #offbeattravel #remoteworklife #homeawayfromhome #slowtravelstories #mentalhealthawarness
The 4 core ingredients to a recharged Bri: 💛 P The 4 core ingredients to a recharged Bri:

💛 Paul
😻 Yoda
🌍 Traveling & adventuring
👩🏼‍💻 Blogging & writing

Among other things like nature, photography, reading, animals, journaling, art, playing Zelda/games, dancing/music, culture/languages, enjoying rly good food and drinks! 😋 

What about you? What recharges you?? 

#rechargemysoul #blogging #adventures #writing #soulfulliving #mindfulliving #mindfultravel #nomadcouple #creativeliving
1 WEEK COSTA RICA ITINERARY👇🦋✨ 🌋 ARENA 1 WEEK COSTA RICA ITINERARY👇🦋✨

🌋 ARENAL // LA FORTUNA (2 days)
- Hike in the Arenal Volcano National Park
- Indulge in a local chocolate/coffee tour (s/o to @northfieldscafe)
- Go on a wildlife safari float (s/o to Raúl for pura vida vibes!)
- Lounge in natural hot springs (highly recommend the budget-friendly Relax Termalitas in Fortuna)
- Visit La Fortuna waterfall
- Check out the Butterfly Conservatory

🦥 QUEPOS // MANUEL ANTONIO (2-3 days)
- Take a guided or DIY tour of Manuel Antonio National Park
- Chill out on the Espadilla beach
- Explore the cute towns
- Watch for wildlife in the trees!

🌿 MONTEVERDE // SANTA ELENA (2 days)
- Visit/hike in the Monteverde Cloud Forest
- Go ziplining
- Birdwatching on a canopy tour
- Monteverde coffee tour
- Do a nature night walk

My sister and I surprised our mom with this bucket list trip on her birthday, and we had a blast! 🥹

Send this itinerary to someone you know who has always wanted to go to Costa Rica 🦋💛✨🌿🦜🐒

#costarica #bucketlisttrip #puravida #costaricaitinerary #lafortuna #manuelantonio #monteverde #ecotourism
Swimming with the biggest fish in the world is a q Swimming with the biggest fish in the world is a quite a humbling experience, and one that’s been at the top of my bucket list for ages! 🥺

Right now is prime whale shark season in La Paz in Baja California Sur, Mexico, so Paul and I made sure to go before we jetted off to see family for the holidays! I’m still in awe of these gentle giants and the fact that we got to swim alongside them!

Read all about the best whale shake tours in La Paz + ethical whale shark tourism in my latest blog post! Link in bio 💛

Send this to a friend who loves whale sharks! 🐳🦈

#whalesharks #lapaz #bajacaliforniasur #ethicaltravel #responsibletravel #ecotourism #golapaz #mexicotravel #bucketlist #seaofcortez
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