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Discovering the Traditional Maya Town of Santiago Atitlán

Last Updated: April 7, 2022 · Guatemala

Santiago Atitlán is a bustling Maya town set amid two volcanoes on the southwest shores of Lake Atitlán. It is the largest as well, with over 70,000 inhabitants of predominantly Tz’utujil Maya.

Of all the towns, Santiago Atitlán is perhaps among the more traditional. However, that is slowly changing. Over 95% of women can be seen wearing traditional trajes (clothes) such as huipiles and blouses and skirts and headdresses, while only 5% or less of the men can be spotted wearing traditional slacks with stripes and handwoven belts.

view of san pedro volcano from santiago atitlan dock in guatemala

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local market in santiago atitlan guatemala

Yet, proud of their heritage, the locals and youth are spearheading efforts in the town to preserve their traditions by opening up workshops to tourists to teach them about their history and culture, including the significance of the backstrap loom for weaving.

Santiago Atitlán is also where you can witness the mixing of Mayan-Catholic syncretist beliefs. Locals worship the town’s deity known as Maximón (El Gran Abuelo), who takes up residence in a family’s home each year and can be publicly visited (if you know where to go, that is!).

Beyond its cultural significance, Santiago Atitlán has a devastating history; one of bloodshed and suffering due to massacres by the government upon civilians and the assassination of the greatly honored Father Stanley Rother originally from Oklahoma, USA. That’s why, to this day, no federal militia is allowed inside the town. The locals have forbidden it.

Little did we know of all that before visiting Santiago Atitlán. That’s why in this guide, I’m going to share with you how best to visit Santiago Atitlán including things to do and what you should know before going.

Here is the complete guide to Santiago Atitlán in Lake Atitlán, Guatemala!

Table of Contents show
Santiago Atitlán, Guatemala
How to Get to Santiago Atitlan
Where to Stay in Santiago Atitlan
Things to Do in Santiago Atitlan
1. Visiting the Maximón Deity in a Local’s Home
2. “Lavados” Mayan Women Washing in Lake Atitlán
3. 13 Batz’ Weaving Co-op
4. Iglesia Parroquial Santiago Apóstol
5. Parque de La Paz
6. 150-Year-Old Tombs in the Local Cemetery
7. Mirador del Valle
8. Art Gallery
9. Local Market

Santiago Atitlán, Guatemala

santiago atitlan boat dock

How to Get to Santiago Atitlan

First things first, where is Santiago Atitlan and how do you get there?

You can find Santiago Atitlan on the southwest end of the famous Lago de Atitlán in Guatemala’s highlands (in the department of Sololá). The busy town of Panajachel, which acts as the gateway to the lake, is a 25-minute boat ride away.

The cost to take one of the lancha boats across the lake depends on your origin and destination.

Seeing as we live in San Pedro, we took the boat from the Santiago dock (muelle) east of San Pedro which cost Q25 per person. You may be able to negotiate for Q20. But keep in mind boat prices are often cheaper for national tourists and especially locals (since they use the boats daily). So if you see someone paying less, that’s probably why.

From Panajachel or another town like San Marcos La Laguna, the cost will likely be the same, considering it takes 25-30 minutes to cross (and in relatively good weather – it will take longer if it’s stormy).

tuk tuk driver and tour guide in santiago atitlan

Where to Stay in Santiago Atitlan

Since there are volcano treks, weaving workshops, and plenty of other things to do in Santiago Atitlan, you may consider spending a night here instead of packing everything into a day trip.

Not to mention, Santiago Atitlan is somewhat secluded from the other towns around Lake Atitlan and boat departure times can be unforgiving with a traveler’s ambitious itinerary. Meaning that you might miss the last boat out of town if you aren’t careful. To remedy that, you should think about overnighting it here and slowing down your pace.

Here are a few recommended places to stay in Santiago Atitlan:

  • Budget ($): Casa Josefa Hotel
  • Boutique ($$): Hotel Los Olivos Santiago Atitlan
  • Luxe ($$+): Hotel Tiosh Abaj

Things to Do in Santiago Atitlan

view of san pedro volcano from santiago atitlan dock in guatemala

To our surprise, there were many things to do in Santiago Atitlan. We weren’t able to check off our bucket list entirely, especially considering there are two awesome volcano hikes that depart from this town.

Nevertheless, the best way to visit Santiago Atitlan in one day is to hire a local guide who can take you around to Santiago’s top attractions (within and nearby the town).

Prices for guides vary, but we found that the further away from the dock you walk the cheaper the prices get.

We actually got trapped in a speech as soon as we stepped foot onto the wooden dock in Santiago. To avoid being rude, we listened to the entire spiel and then carried on on our own. Once we were higher up in the town we realized that we had almost no plan of what to see and do, so we ended up hiring a certified guide by the name of Pablo. He was much nicer and not at all forceful, so we agreed to Q65 total for him to take us to 5-6 locations around Santiago.

tuk tuks in santiago atitlan guatemala

We ended up extending our tour to include 2-3 more attractions, including a weaving workshop that was open, and the total price came to Q150 (duration: 2 – 2.5 hours).

That said, here is what we were able to do and see on our tour around town!

Note: You could visit most of these places on your own but you will need to pay separate fares for tuk-tuks to pick you up and drop you off at each location, considering that the town is quite big. The benefit of doing a tour is that you get explanations of everything. The tour was in Spanish and he spoke slowly and clearly enough for us to understand everything.

1. Visiting the Maximón Deity in a Local’s Home

Maximón deity inside local's home in Santiago Atitlán, Guatemala

Maximón, also known as El Gran Abuelo, is a sacred Maya deity. Each year, Maximón takes up residence with a local family of one of the members of the confraternity (cofradía), who are elected by the community. Then, on the 8th of May, Maximón will move into his new home.

During that new year, the public is welcome to visit and offer blessings to Maximón. Members of the community gather inside this designated space to pray, give blessings, drink the local liquor, and pay their respects to El Gran Abuelo, who is always masked and dressed in local clothing.

To visit Maximón as an outsider, you must pay Q5 to the family (as a donation). Additionally, if you’d like to take photographs, you may do so but sparingly and for an extra fee of Q5. We handed our donation to Pablo, who handed it to a member seated next to the deity, who tucked it gently into the folds of Maximón’s shirt.

Locals sitting around the Maximon Deity (El Gran Abuelo) inside a local family's home in Santiago Atitlan Guatemala
Maximon Deity (El Gran Abuelo) inside a local family's home in Santiago Atitlan Guatemala

There is a lot happening inside this small space. Candles of four colors, representing the four cardinal points, are burning; men, women, and children are drinking from handmade gourd cups; and Mayan and Catholic relics, figures, and symbols decorate either side of the room.

Tip: Should you visit, speak softly and ask for permission before taking photos. It is also respectful to thank the family and dress respectively. Essentially, try not to make your presence known or disturbing.

Lastly, since Maximón is housed within a local family’s home that changes each year, there will be no signs and you’ll likely need to navigate between tiny back alleyways to get there. Going with a guide is recommended, so you don’t get lost and can have someone to refer to.

2. “Lavados” Mayan Women Washing in Lake Atitlán

maya women washing clothes over rocks in lake atitlán in the town of santiago atitlán, guatemala

For the Maya women living in Santiago Atitlan, scrubbing clothes against rocks and washing them in the lake before carrying it all home in a large basket perched atop their heads is a daily ritual. They have done this practice for decades. As such, it is considered fairly normal by local standards.

As an onlooker, however, the sight settles on one’s mind heavily. To those coming from more modern-day societies, it presents itself as an ecological and sanitary disaster. The creamy liquid from the cleaning products seeps into the lake’s water like a polluted river. Traditional wooden cayuco boats sit shoreside nearby where algal blooms cover the water not too far away.

You can witness locals of almost every town around Lake Atitlan doing this, so the women washers are not isolated to just Santiago Atitlan. However, the scene in Santiago Atitlan is a little bit more shocking, perhaps evident?

traditional tz'utujil maya women washing clothes in lake atitlán in guatemala
washing station by lakeshore in santiago atitlan
women washers by lakeshore in santiago atitlan guatemala
maya women washing clothes over rocks in santiago atitlán, guatemala

I saw an image of this exact spot, taken in 2005, and the two photos couldn’t be more different. Where there were once plants and grazing cows now lies trampled earth and the once luscious green hill set behind the shore now lies buried beneath concrete blocks and buildings. A developed park with individual bbq firepits and picnic tables now overlooks the lake instead of grass-covered land.

Despite sustainable development efforts and the implementation of proper wash stations nearby the shore (to reduce pollution), the locals still wash up in the lake because it’s easier and a daily ritual they’ve done for years. In any case, visiting the women washing in the lake is a sight to witness if anything but to observe and learn and appreciate others’ way of life.

3. 13 Batz’ Weaving Co-op

backstrap weaving loom at 13 batz santiago atitlan
young male textile worker at 13 batz cooperative
young maya weaver at 13 batz weaving cooperative in santiago atitlan

Visiting a weaving cooperative in Santiago Atitlán is a must. The most well-known among them is the Cojolya Weaving Center and Museum, as featured by Lonely Planet Guatemala. While you should give the museum a tour, don’t overlook the other lesser-known initiatives led by locals and youth alike.

That’s how we discovered 13 Batz (meaning “thirteen threads”), a locally-owned and operated collective that employs young men and women weavers who make the traditional trajes of Santiago Atitlán by backstrap loom, pedal loom, and handwoven embroidery.

“Somos un grupo de tejedoras y tejedores conformado por 20 familias Tz’utujiles de Santiago Atitlán Sololá, Guatemala. Elaboramos tejidos en telar de cintura y de pedal con detalles de bordado a mano, cada lienzo de tejido se realiza con los conocimientos artísticos que hemos heredado de nuestras abuelas y abuelos por lo que en cada uno encontramos la historia milenaria de nuestra identidad y de la naturaleza.”

—

“We are a group of men and women weavers of 20 Tz’utujil families from Santiago Atitlán in Sololá, Guatemala. We make fabrics using a backstrap loom and pedal loom with details of hand embroidery, each fabric canvas is made with the artistic knowledge that we have inherited from our grandmothers and grandparents so that in each one we find the history of our identity and that of nature.”

wooden holders for differnt threads used to make maya textiles at 13 batz cooperative in santiago atitlan guatemala
blue thread (hilo) at 13 batz weaving cooperative in santiago atitlan
handwoven maya textiles 13 batz santiago atitlan

During our visit, we had the pleasure to meet and speak with Antonio, a young weaver who explained and demonstrated the workings of the pedal loom and the significance of what 13 Batz means for them, their community, and the future generation.

Even if you don’t purchase anything, visiting 13 Batz in Santiago Atitlán is a time-worthy endeavor. You can find them located on Calle Chu Cruz. Donations are encouraged!

4. Iglesia Parroquial Santiago Apóstol

white catholic church of saint james the apostle in santiago atitlan guatemala
community gathered outside saint james the apostle church in santiago atitlan

Santiago Atitlán’s main church or parish, Saint James the Apostle (Iglesia Parroqouial Santiago Apóstol), is culturally and historically important for the community. It was incorporated into the town’s main square by Franciscans around 1524 when the Spanish arrived in Guatemala and began enforcing their Catholocism onto the indigenous populations around the lake.

The outside of the church is nothing out of the ordinary. Actually, for a Catholic church, it is quite simple; wooden statues line the interior walls, sleek tile floors expand up to the church’s nave, high ceilings with beams span the length of the room, and what appears to be transparent tin-covered gaps in the ceiling lets the light come in through the roof.

Perhaps what stands out most is the painted portrait of Catholic priest Stanley Rother, who was assassinated during the decade-long conflict that endured in Santiago Atitlan. On the right side of the entrance is a plaque, written in Spanish and in English, which explains more about the tragic events that took place on 2 December 1990 when 13 Tz’utujil civilians were shot down by the Guatemalan Army.

Tip: To visit the inside of the parish you must say that you are here to simply orar – or pray. You will be asked to not take photos and not disturb those that are worshipping.

5. Parque de La Paz

red cross and tombstone of massacre that occurred in santiago atitlan at parque de la paz

The massacre of 2 December 1990 took place just on the outskirts of Santiago Atitlán in Panajab. What once was the encampment site of Guatemalan soldiers is now called the Parque de La Paz in commemoration of the 13 people who died by gunfire here, among them women, men, and children.

Gravestones with crosses just out from the ground, each plaque ebbed with the names of the fallen victims. Each year on December 2, the community of Santiago Atitlán holds a memorial to remember those who lost their lives on this tragic day.

commemorative sign of parque de la paz in panabaj santiago atitlan
man reading plaque of 1990 massacre in santiago atitlan
parked tuk tuk in front of parque de la paz in santiago atitlan
parque de la paz santiago atitlan

Just days after the massacre, the community gathered in force to protest the presence of the Guatemalan Army, who were thereafter expelled from stepping foot into Santiago Atitlán ever again.

To this day, members of the federal militia are not allowed inside the town; only local police have power here.

The park sits just alongside the road heading out of Santiago toward San Pedro La Laguna. It is free to visit and does not take long to do so. The sign that you can read in English inside the church is also written here, however only in Spanish.

6. 150-Year-Old Tombs in the Local Cemetery

colorful cemetery in santiago atitlan guatemala
colorfully painted cement graves in santiago atitlan guatemala
ancient tombs in santiago atitlan cemetery

One of the stops on our extended tuk-tuk tour around Santiago Atitlán was to the local cemetery to look at old tombs dating back 150 years ago.

The cemetery was similar to what we’ve seen in Mexico — raised concrete structures, some ornately decorated and painted while others remain plain, jut out of the ground with slots and plaques designated for each family member.

Historically, families who had money to spare were the ones able to afford such luxuries for the dead, while the poor members of society were left to bury their loved ones in the ground. It was an interesting visit and learn more about the community, however, we didn’t linger long.

7. Mirador del Valle

mirador (viewpoint) overlooking San Pedro volcano and Santiago Atitlán in Guatemala
tuk tuks in santiago atitlan guatemala

Down the road from the cemetery is where guides bring tourists to look out and give an introduction to Santiago Atitlán. the Mirador del Valle was the first stop on our tour.

On a clear day, you can see the impressive Volcán San Pedro towering behind the part of the town jutting out into the bay. The viewpoint isn’t very official, as there is no infrastructure or viewing deck, but we saw many tuk-tuk guides explaining to Guatemalan tourists the history of Santiago and its unique location at the base of two neighboring volcanoes.

Note that this viewpoint isn’t the same as the Mirador Rey Tepepul, which is a must-visit as well if you have time. It can be found inside the protected Parque Regional Municipal Rey Tepepul (also known as the Reserva Natural de Atitlán), 7 km outside of Santiago Atitlán. It’s inside this park where you can observe the majestic quetzal – the national bird of Guatemala.

8. Art Gallery

Although you don’t need a tuk-tuk guide to take you to the local art galleries in Santiago Atitlán, our driver did drop us off at one tienda in town. The owner, Gustan, then gave us a brief explanation of the style, history, and symbols represented within the different paintings. It was interesting to have what we were looking at explained to us, as we’ve seen similar artworks in other towns.

For example, there are really unique paintings of scenes (i.e. coffee farmers) from an aerial perspective. There are also some images where the figures are appearing to look down at you – so the other way around.

You can see such art displayed on a lower viewing deck atop Mirador de la Cruz in the town of San Juan La Laguna.

9. Local Market

local market in santiago atitlan guatemala
ice cream vendor at market in downtown santiago atitlan, guatemala

Market days in Santiago Atitlán are quite the scene. Vendors line the streets selling all sorts of food and drink and local goods and textiles. Even if you don’t need to purchase anything, it’s interesting to just go and stroll through the market to observe and people watch.

In the center of the town, there is a small plaza. There, you’ll find a circular fountain-like centerpiece displaying a raised map of Lake Atitlán. You can see all the volcanoes and towns around the lake.

As for other things to do in Santiago Atitlán, don’t forget that you can also go on treks up to Volcán Tolimán and Volcán Atitlán. You could also hire a local birding guide to take you to spot birds such as the quetzal in the nearby reserve.

There is a lot to do and see in Santiago Atitlán — more than meets the eye. If you are planning to visit, it would be wise to carve out at least a full day if not 2 to 3 in order to take advantage of nature and outdoor activities (in addition to all the interesting cultural and historical things to do and see).

I hope this guide helps you plan your trip to Santiago Atitlán! I think my favorite experiences were getting to speak with the weavers at 13 Batz and visiting the deity Maximón inside a local family’s home.

Please remember to visit these destinations with respect and make sure to Leave No Trace! Before you go, be sure to check out my other guides for traveling in Guatemala.

Also Read:

  • 9 Incredible Hikes Around Lake Atitlán
  • An Epic Lake Atitlán Itinerary — How to Spend Your Days Lakeside in Guatemala
  • Living in Lake Atitlán as a Digital Nomad

Pin this guide to Santiago Atitlán, Guatemala for travel inspiration!

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By: Bri · In: Guatemala

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Comments

  1. Nancy R says

    March 16, 2022 at 6:32 pm

    Do you happen to have the contact information for your local tour guide? thank you

    Reply
    • Bri says

      March 18, 2022 at 9:33 am

      Hi Nancy, unfortunately, I don’t! I will just say that we found him in the town and not by the boat dock area which is super touristy.

      Reply

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💻 WORKING ONLINE
While not all nomads/remote workers have online-specific jobs, it’s the easiest way to sustain an income for full-time or long-term travel. Here are some jobs you can do as a digital nomad!

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There are many countries out there offering digital nomad visas, but you don’t even need one to just travel as a tourist and stay in-country for 30, 60, 90, or 180 days. Nomads go everywhere as long as there’s a Wi-Fi connection, some countries you may consider are Portugal, Mexico, Costa Rica, Thailand, Vietnam, Croatia, Canada, Colombia, Indonesia, Brazil, and beyond! Even lesser-known places such as Namibia are starting to offer nomad visas to entice long-term travelers to visit.

🏡 FINDING HOUSING ABROAD
Read my blog post for the full guide on this, but basically, check local Facebook groups for renting local housing for extended stays and then use Airbnbs for shorter stays or to negotiate longer contracts with the owner. There are even more “nomad rental websites” these days to make finding accommodation even easier. Don’t overlook co-living/working spaces too like Selina where the digital nomad community tends to congregate.

💛 EXPLORING LOCALLY/RESPONSIBLY
As always, be mindful and respectful when you visit these communities. Many small towns are struggling with rapid growth and overdevelopment so be mindful of your choices of where you stay, how you spend your money, and who you support.

My best advice + detailed guides are all on the blog, free for you to use! Let me know if you have any questions about digital nomad life! 

Lastly, don’t overthink it. Moving countries isn’t as intimidating as you may think! It’s become second nature for us now after several years! 🐈‍⬛💃🌎✨
I’ve had the wonderful opportunity to discover t I’ve had the wonderful opportunity to discover this incredible country beyond the resorts and beaches, having lived temporarily in 5 out of the 32 Mexican states (Nayarit, Quintana Roo, Chiapas, Oaxaca, and now Baja California Sur) as a digital nomad who’s been slow traveling/living in and out of Mexico since 2018. 

There is so, so much cultural and natural beauty in Mexico — I wish more people could experience this country for themselves and not through the eyes of the media.

***Please visit Mexico as a digital nomad (or tourist in general) responsibly and mindfully. Stay local, eat local, drink local, shop local, support local. Leave No Trace and be conscious of your choices and impact!*** 

Here are the cities/towns we’ve slow traveled/lived in for extended stays.

• Oaxaca City — a colorful, historic open museum rich in indigenous culture and gastronomy 
• San Cristóbal de las Casas — an endearing pueblo mágico in the Chiapas Highlands
• La Paz — the capital city of BCS teeming with marine life, diving, fish tacos, and desert vibes
• San Pancho — an eco-conscious town in Nayarit famous for its sunsets and community
• Tulum — no introduction needed (and I wouldn’t go back here as a nomad due to overdevelopment)

Other great cities/towns/destinations for digital nomads are:

• Guadalajara (state of Jalisco)
• Santiago de Querétaro (state of Querétaro)
• San Miguel de Allende or Guanajuato City (state of Guanajuato)
• Playa del Carmen (state of Quintana Roo)
• Valladolid or Mérida (state of Yucatán)
• México City/CDMX (state of México)
• Sayulita (state of Nayarit)
• Puerto Vallarta (state of Jalisco)
• Puerto Escondido (state of Oaxaca)

I’d love to know what you think about Mexico and where you’ve been in the comments! 🇲🇽💛

And for the detailed guide of 13 places to live/visit, read my blog @bucketlistbri .com (just type in “places to live mexico” in the quick search bar if you can’t find the post under my “Mexico” category).

#mexicomagico #digitalnomad #visitmexico #livingabroad #fulltimetravel #mexicotravel #mexicodestinations #nomadadigital #nomada #mexicomaravilloso #slowtravelling #mindfultravel
PSA: Your anxiety, problems or (bad) habits will f PSA: Your anxiety, problems or (bad) habits will follow you around the world until you face them no matter how much you travel or move countries 🙃 

I know I’m not the only one that feels restless at times and idolizes moving to a new region/country/continent to shake my feelings of anxiety or self-doubt or fear! (Also, I tend to think about moving to another country even when I just moved to a new one 😅)

I know because I have lived abroad for 8+ years. I used to try to drown out my icky feelings and past traumas with lots of alcohol but now I carry them with me like I do my mismatched socks — they add to the quirkiness and remind me I don’t have to be, and am not, perfect. 

And that life is more interesting that way, anyway. 

Anddd that most importantly, whenever I get lost, I can and will be found again — I just may look and think differently after new adventures but I am still loved and never lost forever 🧦 ✨💛 

In sum, whether you travel full-time or not, take care of yourself ✨💛

#nomadness #nomadlife #lifeofadventure #livingabroad #fulltimetravel #offbeattravel #remoteworklife #homeawayfromhome #slowtravelstories #mentalhealthawarness
The 4 core ingredients to a recharged Bri: 💛 P The 4 core ingredients to a recharged Bri:

💛 Paul
😻 Yoda
🌍 Traveling & adventuring
👩🏼‍💻 Blogging & writing

Among other things like nature, photography, reading, animals, journaling, art, playing Zelda/games, dancing/music, culture/languages, enjoying rly good food and drinks! 😋 

What about you? What recharges you?? 

#rechargemysoul #blogging #adventures #writing #soulfulliving #mindfulliving #mindfultravel #nomadcouple #creativeliving
1 WEEK COSTA RICA ITINERARY👇🦋✨ 🌋 ARENA 1 WEEK COSTA RICA ITINERARY👇🦋✨

🌋 ARENAL // LA FORTUNA (2 days)
- Hike in the Arenal Volcano National Park
- Indulge in a local chocolate/coffee tour (s/o to @northfieldscafe)
- Go on a wildlife safari float (s/o to Raúl for pura vida vibes!)
- Lounge in natural hot springs (highly recommend the budget-friendly Relax Termalitas in Fortuna)
- Visit La Fortuna waterfall
- Check out the Butterfly Conservatory

🦥 QUEPOS // MANUEL ANTONIO (2-3 days)
- Take a guided or DIY tour of Manuel Antonio National Park
- Chill out on the Espadilla beach
- Explore the cute towns
- Watch for wildlife in the trees!

🌿 MONTEVERDE // SANTA ELENA (2 days)
- Visit/hike in the Monteverde Cloud Forest
- Go ziplining
- Birdwatching on a canopy tour
- Monteverde coffee tour
- Do a nature night walk

My sister and I surprised our mom with this bucket list trip on her birthday, and we had a blast! 🥹

Send this itinerary to someone you know who has always wanted to go to Costa Rica 🦋💛✨🌿🦜🐒

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Swimming with the biggest fish in the world is a q Swimming with the biggest fish in the world is a quite a humbling experience, and one that’s been at the top of my bucket list for ages! 🥺

Right now is prime whale shark season in La Paz in Baja California Sur, Mexico, so Paul and I made sure to go before we jetted off to see family for the holidays! I’m still in awe of these gentle giants and the fact that we got to swim alongside them!

Read all about the best whale shake tours in La Paz + ethical whale shark tourism in my latest blog post! Link in bio 💛

Send this to a friend who loves whale sharks! 🐳🦈

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