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At a Glance – Nepal Blog Post #3

Last Updated: October 20, 2021 · Nepal

At a Glance

August 21, 2015

Table of Contents show
The Best, the Worst, & the Coolest About Living in Nepal
Catching the local bus – an experience in itself
Boudha Stupa – round two – this time with a rooftop view
It’s the small things
Talking our way to Thamel
In the meantime..

The Best, the Worst, & the Coolest About Living in Nepal

The best thing I think so far is discovering life in a totally new way.  To open your eyes and see how culturally rich and diverse it is here. To realize there are truly only a handful of things you actually need.  To see your own prejudices and stereotypes begin to crumble before you, opening your mind to new opportunities to learn and grow from.

The worst is the knowledge that there will be a potentially bigger & badder earthquake to hit while here, and having no idea when or where it could happen.

The scariest is the frequent tremors/aftershocks that you feel.  The first time I felt an aftershock I was on my bed wondering what the heck was happening.  The most recent was when Paul & I were at the table and it started trembling and the small vase of flowers began shaking.  In those moments it’s like you freeze and wait to see what happens next.  Is it going to get worse? Will it stop soon? Luckily for now I could always answer the latter first.

The coolest is making friends from such culturally different backgrounds and learning about their individual lives, beliefs, experiences, and culture, and then seeing beyond these differences and being aware that we actually share so much in common.

The most fun (funnest – why can’t this be grammatically acceptable? Go away red scribbly line) is just putting on your backpack and leaving to go explore.

Catching the local bus – an experience in itself

The first time Paul and I went exploring we were nervous – foreigners waving down a passing bus on Ring Road (basically I would rather cross a busy street in NYC), who don’t speak more than 5 words of Nepali is not the ideal mixture.  We were going to Boudhanath Stupa again, so I could show Paul.  1, 2, 3 minibusses pass us yelling out “Boudha” (bo-da), but they were crammed full.  We decided if we wanted to go anywhere we were going to have to be more aggressive.

Then the next bus comes and it hardly slows down for us so we run after it, repeating “Boudha!”  The bus boy that collects the money jumps down and Paul, now “aggressive,” yells “teece” at him (which means 30…I think) and the boy just looks at us weird. We were making it more complicated trying to haggle with prices and trying to be sure of what we were doing.  It’s just better to go with the flow.  So we hopped on and were instantly greeted by 20 pairs of eyes just staring at us.  The only rule regarding the traffic here is that there seem to be no rules, just don’t purposely hit anyone. Buses, scooters, and cars were literally inches away. Rather than daily traffic, it’s more like a race to see who can fit in the smallest space and get in front of you first.  It’s fun – in an uncertain “I don’t know if I’m risking my life” kind of way.

Boudha Stupa – round two – this time with a rooftop view

We finally arrive – and this time at Boudhanath there were many more people circling the square touching all the prayer wheels.  When we went to go up on the lookout, there were about 50 people sitting all over the floor mumbling prayers aloud and in unison.  They all had their shoes off, cross-legged, and were passing around dried bread twists and pouring small cups of Mountain Dew – a fine mix between tradition and globalization.  One nice, smiling lady motioned for us to go upstairs past them and they all just continued to worship for I don’t know how long.

I then suggested we go to a rooftop café to see the panorama and to have a nice cup of coffee.  We were the only 2 there at this hour – Paul indulged in a locally brewed Everest beer with veggie soup and me – coffee and Indian veggie curry.  For the two of us it was around 1100Rs, or approximately $11. Not bad. Then it got dark, real dark, real fast.  We walked until we found a bus that would take us back to Dhumbarahi.

It’s the small things

On the way, we stumbled across a Bhatbhateni supermarket which is the closest thing to a “Wal-Mart” here.  This Bhatbhateni seemed luxurious compared to the one we use most.  This one actually had aisle signs! It was clean and products weren’t all over the floor in boxes in front of the shelves.  Haha, we laughed at how such small things can make one so happy.  Which reminds me — the other day before picking Paul up at the airport I was expecting a cold shower, (since that’s been the reality for 3 weeks) and then all of a sudden the water got warm…warmer.. and then hot! I could actually stand under it normally without having to stick my right foot in and take my left arm out and shake it all about.. I was so overcome with happiness!

That shower ended up being quite pointless though.  When I went to meet Paul at the airport I tried going on my own, taking a taxi, on my own, and all that, on my own. It began raining cats and dogs and there I was – in the dark, in the rain without an umbrella, trying to wave taxis down and when I finally got one he tried robbing me (no, not literally)! He wanted to charge me 800Rs ($8) because of course, I am a foreigner. 1 hour later I retreated back to the apartment soaking wet and my roommate and I took a bus to the airport – which only costs 15Rs (15 cents) per person.

Talking our way to Thamel

Saturday is my day off, so Paul and I decided to venture out again and just walk to the famous area called Thamel, which is about 45 minutes from where I live.  You discover so much more by traveling on foot.  One of the most memorable moments I’ve had is when, on our way there, we walked past this area that was obviously very damaged by the earthquake. There was a pagoda-style Hindu temple in the middle of rubble, dirt, broken bricks, and mud, and walking across it all were two little girls; they both stared at us as we did them when all of a sudden they both started giggling. The eldest of the two held up a smartphone she was carrying.  She was taking a picture of us taking a picture of them.  To her, we were the interesting folk to look at; with our foreign clothes and hair, backpacks, and face masks.  And to us, there were two little Nepalese girls walking alone through the earthquake rubble and mud that contradicted a beautiful, old temple standing in the background.

Getting closer to Thamel you notice the streets get (a little) cleaner, shops get fancier, and there are more signs in English and not to forget more foreigners too, which was interestingly quite nice. It’s almost as if each time we looked at one another we said, “Hey! I know what you’re going through, we understand each other, white traveler,” when nothing was actually said. Yeah, it’s kind of weird. There’s so much to look at walking through the streets in Thamel; the atmosphere is so lively and colorful, it just makes you go, “Whoa, Asia.”

On our way back we paid 200Rs each to get into the “Garden of Dreams” which, compared to the streets, is a beautiful green oasis.

It really separates you from the hustle and bustle of the city.  There are fountains, ponds, statues, critters, palm trees, benches, etc. I mean it was worth the visit.

We sat down for overpriced coffee at a fancy restaurant inside the garden. But it was probably the best cappuccino I’ve ever had, considering I wasn’t really a coffee person until I got here ^^ Nonetheless, it was well worth the visit. When we left to walk back home, we were “attacked” to put it harshly, by a fake holy man.  It was a money scam, but we didn’t have the time to figure that out.  An old man just walked up to Paul and put a red dot on his forehead and said “it okay I am a holy man.” Uh, I don’t think so, sir. He “blessed” us both with a wilted flower on our heads and with a quick ring of his small bell. Then he said “Money, money, money.” Feeling so awkward with our ridiculous thumb-sized red dots I took out a one-dollar bill, which he wasn’t too happy with.  Hey, money is money.

In the meantime..

When not out and about, time here is spent waiting out the monsoon rains by playing Spongebob monopoly or a game of chess, maybe even watching a movie or two, playing with Yoda, chasing Yoda, cooking dinner, writing, read, and working of course from 10-5, except when there are announced strikes/protests (bandhs/banda).  Hope you enjoyed reading a little more about life so far in Kathmandu!

Hi Grandma & Grandpa! Just wanted to give a quick shout-out if you’re reading this to tell you we miss you and love you both so much!!! <3

By: Bri · In: Nepal · Tagged: kathmandu

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What a Week – Nepal Blog Post #2

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I’m Bri, an adventurous digital nomad living abroad full-time since 2015. It is my hope to inspire you to live a life of adventure, seek out meaningful experiences, and travel slowly and mindfully!

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Traveling solo in Nepal has awakened in me a confi Traveling solo in Nepal has awakened in me a confidence & sense of self (at the risk of sounding cliché), of “my essence” and inner Knowing, and where my compassion and passions mingle and thrive. I was reading some of your comments on my recent Reel about solo travel and how I put myself at great risk/in danger. But as I was telling my Tibetan friend, Sonam, tonight (yes, the new one I made last week!), I inform my decisions mostly by 1. Asking myself, “Would this make a good story?” and 2. Listening to my body and emotions. Yes, it’s risky to travel solo, to be a female in a male-dominated culture, to go out after hours with people you just met, etc. But doing that — and all the magic that followed by “allowing” — reminded me exactly of who I am at my core: Curious and open to the world, willing to get uncomfortable for the sake of finding magic and serendipity. Some of you said, “I’m too scared to do this, how do you overcome that fear of personal safety?” And to this I say, I don’t! Fear accompanies me along the journey. Living life is one big risk. It’s uncomfortable to be open, vulnerable, and unsure. But once you accept that and once you begin to let compassion and curiosity guide you rather than your fear, the real magic starts to happen in all areas of life, not just travel. I find these moments most in travel though, when I’m confronted with contrast and am left vulnerable to the world and the kindness of my fellow humans. My Reels are not meant to romanticize or gloss over very real risks/threats in life, but rather to share a real account of what’s possible (adventure, connections, love, etc) when you worry less about societal norms and what’s “safe not safe” “right not right” and allow your over-active fears to take a backseat. 
This is your reminder to trust your inner compass to guide you in writing your epic life story. ✨✨

To sum it up: 

1. Choose a life of adventure 
2. Stay curious
3. Get comfortable with being uncomfortable (otherwise said, seek discomfort)
4. Let love and light flow in and out 
5. Change is the only constant 

#solotravel #nepaltravel #solofemaletraveler #soloadventure #localtravel #trekkingnepal #adventurethatislife
The strength of women 💛 These ladies were lau The strength of women 💛 

These ladies were laughing so sweetly while filling up their water jugs at the Manga Hiti fountain in Patan. I watched them for a while and then plucked up the courage to ask if I could take their photos, which only made them giggle more. 

I've always felt that not being able to communicate in the same language makes for even more interesting encounters. Without words, we have to touch each other's humanity with eyes and gestures, and most of the time it leads to unspoken mutual understanding, acceptance, and love. We three walked away with the biggest smiles on our faces. I yelled out "Dhayabad!" (Thank you!) as they hoisted their jugs up the stairs, laughing all the way. I won't forget this shared moment between us 🙏 

Check stories for the landscape orientation for some of these photos ✨ 

#nepal #nepalnow #nepalphotography #nepaliculture #nepalisbeautiful #natgeoyourshot #patan #kathmanduvalley #lifetimeexperiences #photonepal #nepaltravel
Did you feel it? Nepal’s ancient wisdom, its swi Did you feel it? Nepal’s ancient wisdom, its swirling spirituality, its raw humanity? ✨🇳🇵❤️

#nepal #visitnepal #nepalnow #travelstories #localtravel #mindfultravel #slowtravel #natgeotravel
When you say “yes” as a solo traveler and stay When you say “yes” as a solo traveler and stay open to the randomness of life and the kindness of strangers, really wonderful memories can be made. Thank you Lama family and my new Tibetan friends for such a fun and insightful sequence of experiences 🙏 💛

#solotravel #localtravel #nepaltravel #nepaldiaries #nepali #solofemaletravel #kathmandunepal #thamel #tibetanfood #solotraveldiaries
My first week back in the chaos of Kathmandu, 💛 My first week back in the chaos of Kathmandu, 💛 

Being back after 7 long years away has jolted my body, brain, and spirit. At first, I felt overwhelmed with the recurring thought of, "I don't know what to do with myself." It was only when acceptance knocked on my door, and I finally decided to let it in, that things began to shift and flow.
 
In Nepal, particularly Kathmandu, everything around me swarms like a hive. I have nowhere else to go but inside myself. I've discovered through years of slow traveling (and solo travel) that peace awaits me there -- a sense of independence, power, and knowing that is still, comforting, and safe. And I can tap into it whenever I need to.

Chaos and peace reside in all of us, and Nepal has a cosmic, ancient way of reminding you of just that. 

📍 Patan Durbar Square, Lalitpur

#nepaltravel #patan #durbarsquare #nepalphotography #slowtravel #nepal #solotravel #lalitpur
They ask, “Why?” I was 29 when I embarked on They ask, “Why?” 

I was 29 when I embarked on the plane on the 21st, and 30 when I disembarked on the 23rd. How fitting. I spent all of my 20s abroad (except for my two final semesters in undergrad), and moved to Nepal when I was 21. 

What better way to say goodbye to my twenties than by returning to the start? I felt the desperate urge to start my 30s this way—alone on a one-way ticket with no concrete plans. I have both feared and longed to come back all these years. You see, I had made a promise to one of my closest Nepali friends that I’d see her again, but the reality is that I no longer can. 

She, along with another dear friend, passed away from cancer a couple of years back. The thought of returning to my old life here without my friends made me, well, incredibly sad. I had thought that, upon landing in Kathmandu—or taking a bite of my first momo—after so long, I’d find myself bursting into tears of both grief and gratitude. But I didn’t. Instead, I found familiarity in the chaos and chaos in the strangeness. 

Just being here—and the decisions and actions it took to get here—has reminded me of the preciousness of this one very short life. And that, by choosing to celebrate mine—at the exciting turn of a decade no less—by coming back to Nepal on a solo trip that would force me into daring discomfort when I could instead retreat to the comforts of family or my partner, is how I want to live it.

Truth is, a couple of months ago the thought of Nepal felt out of reach. It felt risky, unattainable. But the idea itself pushed open, just a crack at first, a door that had been otherwise closed. I could have more easily ignored my “what if?” daydreams—calling them off as too hard, too uncomfortable, or too far-fetched to actually pursue—and kept it shut.
But sometime in mid-July, I decided to look at flights. And I found one (truly, just one) option that could work. And it just so happened that it would fall on my birthday, or rather bridge my birthday. The idea of getting on a plane at 29 and getting off it at 30—back in Nepal—sold me. I fell in love with the story, the adventure, the unknowingness of it all. 

So, yeah. That’s why. Or as I prefer, “Why not?”
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